EASY-KNIT BED SHAWL

A knitted bed shawl offers comfort & warmth.

Spring may be just around the corner but we will still have cool nights for quite some time. And while we like to read, knit or watch television in bed, it can be just too cold in the bedroom to sit up in bed for more than a few minutes. Also, when we are ready to sleep, it's not easy to keep the heavy bed covers pulled up all the way to the head. So, while it may be considered an old-fashioned clothing item, a warm bed shawl is a great thing to have.

Here’s a practical pattern for a bed shawl that can be made up in less than a week working only a couple of hours per day. The wrap is put on over the head and worn just draped over the shoulders with out the need for buttons or ties. It's a kind of a short poncho, worn with the diagonal points in the front and back.

You can make one for yourself. It will also make a great gift for a family member or friend. I’m planning to make several in the next few months to give as gifts. This kind of wrap also offers warmth and comfort to people who are in need of special support as they face illnesses or other serious problems in life.

The bed shawl shown in the photo is a vintage item that I found at a thrift shop. (I haven't finished making one for myself but I'll post a pic of it when it's ready.)

I’ve studied this particular shawl a bit to see how it’s made. It turns out to be a very simple pattern that can go together fast. Here are my instructions for making this kind of wrap.

Bed shawl instructions
As before mentioned, I tend to give only general ideas about how to go about these projects. They are not full instructions, but general guides, given to encourage you to knit or crochet simple garments and other useful things for the home. Besides, once you get motivated, you will find dozens of detailed patterns on the Internet for knitting and crocheting almost anything that you can think of.

Use size 8 straight needles and worsted weight yarn in 4 different colors or, perhaps, for a more updated look you might choose varying tones of the same color. This is good project to help use up yarn in your project leftovers bag. It can probably be done with a total of about 12 ounces of medium weight worsted yarn. You'll work with a single strand. You might also crochet the squares. If you opt for crochet, it might be better to use a light weight worsted yarn and the corresponding hook.

The bed shawl is made of four 11-inch squares crocheted together. That makes for a total of about 24 inches square plus fringe. You can knit your shawl a longer length, if you want, and use any combination of colors for the squares.

To knit one very much like the one shown, you might use a basket stitch. But, lacking patience, the basket stitch is too complicated for me. So, I expect I’ll make the squares in a simpler way. Here I’m thinking about using either the twisted stockinette or the seed stitch. Most any stitch, simple or complex, will work out fine. You’ll find instructions for making different kinds of knit stitches in books and on the Internet. 

Begin the shawl making the first square. Cast on 48 stitches (or the number of stitches that you need to make the length you want). Keep knitting these rows until the piece is square. Then bind off the stitches. Make all four squares. Then crochet the edges of the squares with a simple edging stitch using the same or contrasting yarn. Remember you should always crochet edges on the front side. Weave the shawl together with the same color yarn as the edges, leaving a four-inch opening on all adjacent squares for the neck opening.

Finally, add an outer decorative edge to keep the edges of the squares from rolling up. You can put a simple fringe on the edges or you can crochet a decorative edge. Your shawl will look better if you use a bold color for the fringe.  There are plenty of instructions for making fringes and decorative edges on the Web.

When the edging is finished, weave in any ends of yarn. Wash the bed shawl in warm water, towel dry it, and block it by pinning it to a towel laid out flat. As it dries, check it to make sure that it maintains its overall square shape.

MAKE A SNUGLY FLEECE QUILT FOR SOMEONE SPECIAL

As you know, by now, Grandma Susan always tries to design and create handmade presents for all kinds of occasions. And Christmas-time is no exception. For this holiday season, among other things, I made fleecy blankets for each of my three small grandchildren.

These snugly quilts are made from purchased, ready-made fleece blankets. I found the small blankets on sale at a big box store for just $3.00 each. They're available in many colors and patterns. I chose a child-friendly pattern and a coordinating solid for each quilt. I tie-quilted the pieces, decorated the front side with colorful yarn, and crocheted all around the edges. It was a great way to use up some of my yarn stash. So, the only cost was that of the two blankets. The end result was a fast turn-around project that has a lot of homemade, old-fashioned charm.

A handmade, fleecy tie-quilt is a great gift.

The most difficult part was making the very first one because the fleece fabric is somewhat stretchy and can be a bit difficult to handle. But with the practice, the second and third came together much easier. So, here, I'll give you some hints that should help cut your time when making this quilt.

This is a great project to do over the weekend. You need only a few items. And, if all goes well, it takes only about 10 hours of work on each quilt. You could also make this blanket with regular fleece fabric - cutting to the right size and/or piecing together, but that would take a bit more trouble.

Materials
Two fleece blankets, each measuring about 45 X 60 inches.
Sharp scissors
Large safety pins
Crochet hook (I used a size H hook.)
Measuring tape or a ruler
Upholsterer's needle
Thimble (to poke the needle through 2 layers of fleece)
Three balls of worsted-weight yarn in different colors – can be leftovers from other projects.

Instructions
Step 1. Lay out the fabric.
Lay one piece of fabric flat over the other, making sure the wrong sides are touching. Trim away any excess fabric around the edges so that one is exactly the same size as the other.

Step 2. Place safety pins all over the blanket.
One reason that these quilt projects can be challenging is the need to wrangle the large pieces of fabric. That's where safety pins come in.

Fasten the safety pins through the two pieces using as many pins as you want. Be sure to cover the entire surface of the blanket with safety pins - at intervals, of course, so that the blanket will lie flat while you're working on the ties.

Step 3. Make the ties.
Once the two layers are securely pinned together, make your tie pattern.

Take the upholsterer's needle and the yarn and push the needle through the two layers - from front to back to front, again.  This can be a struggle, so be ready to use your thimble and finger strength. You may even have to resort actually poking small holes with a seam ripper.

I stitched 12 ties, making a total of 6 - 11" squares (See the picture.) Tie the ends in a tight double knot and trim the yarn so you have two lengths of about 1.5 inches sticking up from the quilt. You can make more squares if you want. But 12 ties seem to be enough to hold the pieces together.

Step 4. Decorate your quilt.
All the decoration should be done on only the front of the blanket with knots hidden between the two layers. The stitches would be too bulky if they pass through both layers. Use your needle to make a decorative rectangle just three inches along all the edges. If you want to write a name or initials on the blanket, use large letter stencils to draw the letters. Then make simple yarn stitches to go around the outline of the letters.

Step 5. Stitch and crochet the edges.
With double-strand yarn and the large needle, blanket stitch around the four edges of the two layers. When this is done, single crochet all around using the blanket stitching as a guide.

Get to work on your blanket.
You'll enjoy the process of deciding on patterns and colors and working to tie-bind your blanket together. And, whether it's a gift for a child or an adult, this fleecy quilt is going to be used and appreciated at any time of year. And, don't be surprised if you want to make one for yourself. I plan to do that just as soon as I've taken care of the people on my gift list.

ONE-HOUR HOLIDAY TABLE RUNNER PROJECT

Handmade runners are a way to create an attractive holiday table without spending a lot. They can be made in many different color and design options, and you'll be delighted with the easy and gorgeous results. This project is based on purchased place mats sewn together with a bright colored yarn.

While the one I made was a simple, ribbed cotton weave with primarily a red color along and gold and orange threads. Yours can be whatever you like, such as bright, metallic holiday prints or other inventive designs. Obviously, the place mats for this project should be fairly light and flexible in order to drape nicely over the edges of the table.

Total time to make this really simple table runner should be only an hour or less.

You’ll need.

Three 14" X 19" place mats (Mat size can vary some. The runner will look great regardless of size.)

One ball of medium-weight cotton yarn (mine was a gold color with a metallic glitter)

Large metal tapestry needle.

Finished size: 14″ x 57″.

If you need more length for a long table, just add a fourth (or fifth) place mat. Fringe or tassles on the four corners can be added to the runner for an added decorative touch.

What to do.

Set the place mats out in a row to form a long rectangle.

Using the yarn and tapestry needle, unite the edges of three place mats creating a zigzag pattern.

Make a similar zigzag decoration on the ends of the runner.

Get moving on this project.
I enjoyed the creative process and how it turned out. Although I used  bright colors for a Christmas table decoration, you can use any fabric you want to make a runner for another season or occasion.


There it is! And it couldn't be simpler to make. You'll want to make a couple more to give as holiday gifts.

Note
Here is the simple holiday display that I put together for my table. (Every item was $1.50 or less (including each of three place mats. Paper ornaments were handmade from cut-outs of old Christmas cards with tiny bows attached.) Picture includes a glimpse of the runner that I made from ribbed cotton place mats.

ANYONE CAN MAKE THESE TIE-QUILTED, FLEECE COVERLETS

I am always on the look out for thoughtful homemade gifts for special occasions. Tie-fleece blankets seemed to be a good idea that could serve for all age groups. And I remembered that I had seen several  styles for these blankets on the Internet when I made tie-fleece pillows for my grandchildren. A neighbor of mine was in happy anticipation of the birth of her first grandchild, and I decided to make something for the baby. I wanted a quick coverlet design for the baby - one that wouldn't take as much time as a knitted one (up to 30 hours to complete). Confident that the tie-fleece idea would work again for me, I went to the store and bought fleece yardage, one a solid green and the other, a lilac geometric pattern.

You'll get raves on these easily made coverlets.

Finding instructions for making fleece blankets wasn't hard at all. It seemed that every craftsy blog had posted or videoed on how to make this kind of covers. And the results that I saw were very attractive and cuddly.

It seemed that there was nothing complicated about it at all, and that all the makers have been so proud to design and give them as gifts. Even kids, of ages about 10 years and older, apparently have  learned to make them. 

The version I came up with was made entirely by hand without a sewing machine. It was fairly simple to make even on the first try. On the other hand, and now with the experience of my first one, I found that there are some common mistakes left out of most instructions. I'll go over some of these later. The best news is that this kind of blanket is very forgiving to minor mistakes.

Choose your fleece fabric
One blanket uses two pieces of fleece fabric - one for each side. You can use any fleece color/pattern combination you like.  The two pieces should be the same except for the pattern. So, be sure about that when you're selecting the thicknesses and textures.  

Fleece fabric is mostly economical. I've even seen it on sale for $3 or $4 a yard, and that's a real bargain since it tends to be about 45" - 48" wide.The rule of thumb for baby blankets is a width of about 30" and length of around 50". The coverlet I made was to be a crib spread and it was 36" by 45". To be on the safe side buy one and a half yards, each, of the print and the coordinating solid.  So, for $12 to $20 dollars you can make an attractive and useful gift for a baby. 

You can ask the attendant to cut the two pieces of fabric to the size that you want. That way you'll save yourself some time and not have to deal with leftovers.  But remember that the outer ties are going to take about 7 inches from each side of the blanket.

Purchase anti-pill fleece so that the blankets can be washed and dried with the regular laundry without becoming ugly. If the fabric doesn't say it's non-shrinkable,consider it to be so and wash and dry the material before starting.

In my search, I found that there are some environmental concerns with fleece (made of polyethylene terephthalate, polyester plastic, PET). So I decided to use  the polyester fabric I found on sale for a crib coverlet/spread with rather than for a blanket that would have direct contact with the baby. This PET type of fabric would also be great for a car seat coverlet. For those who want an all-purpose baby blanket, it would be best to search about for bamboo or cotton fleece, as those natural materials are better for babies. The cost of natural fabric is likely to be greater.

Materials
pair of good, sharp scissors

2 contrasting color pieces of fleece material

table for working (or be ready to sprawl everything out on the floor)

yardstick

2 shades of worsted-weight yarn (can be, like mine, from your leftover stash)

cardboard template, 7 inches long - with half inch holes

upholstery needle

large safety pins

How to make the coverlet
Step 1- setting up the pieces of fleece

Trim the selvages of the two pieces, if there are any, and straighten out the ends. The selvage is the rough edge along two sides where the weave is a bit different. Selvages aren't usually used. Try for a perfect rectangle. That may not be so easy because the material tends to be wiggly. Don't stretch or pull it. Just smooth it out. Fleece gives a lot and can be seriously stretched out of shape. Don't be over concerned about a few wrinkles. By the time the fringes are tied, it won't be noticeable if the pieces are a little off square. 

Make sure the wrong sides face each other - that's with the more polished sides out and the duller sides inside, just as you'll want it when its tied together. Use 12 or more safety pins to hold the pieces where you want them. Pinning the fleece together helps to keep the two pieces in place while you do the yarn decoration and make the cuts.

Step 2 -  the cuts for fringe

Place the patterned fleece on the bottom, and the solid piece on the top, so you won't be distracted by the pattern. Cut 1” wide slits around the entire edge, 7 “ long with a 7” square cut out of each corner. The fringe strips are cut parallel with each side of the rectangle. Lay the yardstick on the edge of the fleece and put a tiny dot with a washable marker just where you want to make the cuts. Cut both fleece thicknesses at the same time. Sharp scissors are a must. Don't worry about each cut being exactly one inch apart. Slight differences won't be noticeable once it's tied. Lay the template at a 90 degree angle with the side to know how far deep to make each cut. 

Step 3 - yarn decoration & inner ties

Use your template to mark the dots at 1/2" apart and running about 3/4" below the tie fringe cuts.  With the upholstery needle and a double yarn, make the decorative rectangle, passing through top  and bottom. Then, do the inner quilting ties at equal intervals, making sure to go through both layers and having about a 1/4" between the entry from the top side and the exit from the bottom side. Having a repeating geometric pattern will help you determine just where to put these ties without doing a lot of measuring.

Step 4 - the outer ties

Tie the two fabrics together at the edges. The knots should be made between pieces of fringe directly one above the other. Pay attention to how you tie so you won't miss one and then have to go back, untie and tie again. Do two opposing sides first and then the other sides. That way you can keep the rectangle in better shape. Be careful with the ties on the corners because they can be tricky, as you need to keep the right angles. Ties can be done using square knots or with a simple double knot - like the ones shown. Also it's easier if you tie every other fringe, then flip the blanket over to tie the remaining strips. That gives it a cleaner look.  

As you tie, the material may bunch if you are using really tight knots. Just stretch the blanket edge as you go to remove any curling or wrinkles. Try to make the knots loose at first and tighten them up later, as needed.

The results
Luckily for me, I received raves on the results of my first try. Time involved?  It took me about eight concentrated hours of work, given that I made a few mistakes that had to be corrected.  And, now that I've learned from my initial mistakes and hoping not to make additional ones, I'm confident that I can do the next coverlet even faster. So, I may really up the ante and make bed-sized coverlets for each of my three grandchildren.

Simpler versions of the crib coverlet - without the yarn decoration - should take four hours or less, depending on the overall size of the blanket. The results are quite acceptable and the blankets are soft, warm and cuddly. And don't worry about these coverlets being perfect. People appreciate the loving work in handmade items and don’t expect them to look like their commercial counterparts.

Related Posts
LEARN TO MAKE SMART, THRIFTY AND EVER SO USEFUL TIE QUILTS
IT’S BABY BLANKET KNITTING TIME AGAIN 
MAKING HEART-SHAPED PILLOWS FOR LITTLE GIRLS

CREATE A PERSONALIZED, EMBROIDERED PICTURE FOR A CHILD
A RIBBON DECKED, TIE QUILTED PILLOWCASE AND A PILLOW HEADBOARD

WHO'S KNITTING CHEMO CAPS? - HOWS & WHYS

In my last post, I wrote about charity knitting circles and why people get involved in them. This post gives more information for those who want to start charity knitting. What I say here comes mainly from my recent experience working with five volunteers at our local meditation group who want to form a charity knitting circle. Our meditation group has already been doing cancer patient support activities for a full year. To date, the activities include light snacks, drinks, and reading materials taken to the chemo area of a local oncology hospital. The five knitting volunteers are more than willing to begin, but most of them feel they lacked sufficient knitting skills. So, I told them - and later announced to the entire meditation group - that I would teach all those who wanted to be part of the circle how to knit. As a first project, I proposed a simple pattern for loom-knitted chemo caps.

Most everyone knows some cancer patients, children or adults, who have lost their hair during chemotherapy and has seen how baldness is a major discomfort for most of them. In response to that problem, many groups, nationwide, are making chemo caps that cancer patients can wear at home for sleep and leisure. And some of these caps are so elegant that they can even be worn on the street. The caps mean warmer heads in cold weather. But they have a greater meaning, too. As cancer patients face the many challenges of their cancer, tenderly handmade caps can give them new hope and help them gather personal forces to combat their illness.

What kind of cap works for cancer patients?
Having decided to knit chemo caps, the next question is what style cap works well for these patients and still is easy to make. I suggested that our small group of volunteers begin with a really simple beanie cap that only involves beginner knitting skills. With these ideas in mind, I recommended loom-knitting and an easy pattern with some special features.

The caps, themselves, will be worn more comfortably if they are made from soft polyester yarns, cotton, bamboo, baby yarn, etc. Pure wool and wool blends are often too hot when worn indoors and some people have allergies to these fibers. Cotton and bamboo yarns are cooler, less allergenic, and much nice for hot weather. Also, the design should include stitches that are knitted fairly close together so that you don't see patches of baldness through the spaces.

Beyond that, solid color or slight variations on a color are better because they draw less attention to the wearer’s head. The more uniform colors also go better with more outfits. And thinner knits, rather than very chunky ones, and caps without seams are preferable because lumps are uncomfortable for sleeping and long hours of wear.

Once the cap is finished, it should be gently washed and dried before before being given to a patient. Washing helps to avoid passing on germs to a sick person who shouldn't be exposed to any kind of infection. It also helps to soften the yarn. No commercial fabric softeners should be used because many of them are allergenic.


Pattern for a seamless, loom- knitted chemo cap for women.
Materials - for an adult woman with an average head circumference.
- round peg loom, 32 to 36-pegs (3/4" apart)
- about 120 yards of chunky yarn or twice as much for thin yarn that must be doubled for this cap. Cotton and bamboo yarns are best.
- loom hook
- crochet hook
- yarn needle

Instructions
Use 2 strands of a medium weight yarn or one strand of a chunky yarn in a light, bright color. Subtle differences in shades of the same color are acceptable.

Take up your loom and wrap a first counter clockwise row. The initial row should be wrapped tight for a better edge. You can crochet a chain for each peg or just turn the loops over, making a half knot for a wrap.

For the second row, e-wrap all pegs. Then lift off bottom loops, in a clockwise direction over top e-wraps (knit row). Make sure that you are knitting without any breaks since this is a seamless cap. E-wrap and lift-off for rows 2 and 4 and all the rest after row five.

Continue wrapping to the right (counter-clockwise) and lifting off to the left (clockwise).  For rows 3 and 5, e-wrap for the entire round. Then, take the loops out, one stitch at a time. Change the direction of the loop - pulled through from behind (knit stitch) to pulled through from the front (purl stitch). The first five rows form a small brim on the hat.

Knit about 28 e-wrap rows (a total of 8 inches) for the main part of the cap.

Next begin the gathered part by taking yarn off peg 1 and placing it on the second peg. Take yarn off peg 3 and place it on peg 4, 5 on 6 and so on all around. Then e-wrap the final row around on looped pegs, skipping the open spaces. Then one final lift-off.

With that row finished and the stitches still on the loom, measure out and cut off a couple yards of yarn on the same ball used to make the cap - without separating it from the knitted work. Put the yarn through the yarn needle and pass it through all loops from behind. Take all loops off the loom. Pull the yarn to make a fairly uniform circle and tighten it to form the gathered part of of the cap. Knot and cut the yarn. Weave the yarn end into the top part of the cap.

What else can be done with chemo caps?
There are some other activities that knitting circles can do along with knitting chemo caps. Again, I'll mention the plans of our meditation group. Organizational leaders will collect all the finished, hand-knitted chemo caps. Once or twice a month, the caps will be taken to the meditation room at regular meeting hours. The whole group will pray for the healing of those patients who receive caps. Each cap will be tagged with a specially decorated card that includes the name and email address of our organization. It will say something like: “Hand knitted for you with love and prayers for your healing.” Tags will also mention that, according to their wishes, people who receive a hat are welcome to contact the organization and the cap maker. 

The chemo caps will be given to staff members of local cancer treatment centers for their distribution. We are beginning our project with just a few volunteers. But, as other group members see how chemo caps make a difference in the lives of cancer patients, we hope to get more participants in our charity knitting circle. Others who want to support the knitting circle but can't find the time to knit can donate yarn and help with decorating the cards to be attached to caps.

Related posts
CHARITY KNITTING CIRCLES ARE USEFUL & FUN.
SOON YOU MIGHT FIND YOURSELF IN A “PAY-IT-FORWARD” CHAIN.
REDEFINE YOUR PRIORITIES, REMAKE YOUR LIFE

IT’S BABY BLANKET KNITTING TIME AGAIN
LOOM KNITTED CAPS FOR KIDS
KNIT A TRIANGULAR PRAYER SHAWL

DON’T GET WRAPPED UP IN HOLIDAY CONSUMERISM.

While, in a national survey, 70% of Americans said they would welcome less emphasis on Christmas gift giving and spending. (Center for a New American Dream), the average American family is still spending $800 on gifts over the holiday season. Does that sound like a wise quantity of money for a nation that’s still struggling with a recession? Well, it doesn’t to me. What I get from this is that people are reluctant to face up to their reality. The majority is not doing well at all, financially, has no savings, and is getting mixed up in all kinds of new debt – to add to their old debt, much of which was never paid off.

If you’re like most of the 98%, extra holiday spending is going to do a number on your credit card debt and bank balance, so be smarter. Don't let December overspending be the reason for a New Year’s hangover. Consider stopping right now and starting over with a thoughtful gift-giving list that won’t bring on New Year stress. You don’t have to spend so much to have a nice Christmas. Here is some information about how the spirit of Christmas has gone wrong, along with some tips on how to make this December season less of a spending holiday. Remember consumerism is bad both for working families and for the Earth.

We’re still getting this wrong.

The statistics given here were reported in Facebook by This group only posts once per day (Dec. 10).

 

From Thanksgiving to New Year’s Day, household waste increases by more than 25%. Added  food waste, shopping bags, packaging, wrapping paper, bows and ribbons - it all adds up to an additional 1 million tons a week to our landfills. (Use Less Stuff) In the U.S., annual trash from gift-wrap and shopping bags totals 4 million tons. (Use Less Stuff) The 2.65 billion Christmas cards sold each year in the U.S. could fill a football field 10 stories high. If every family reused just two feet of holiday ribbon, the 38,000 miles of ribbon saved could tie a bow around the entire planet. Half of the paper America consumes is used to wrap and decorate consumer products. Each year, 50 million Christmas trees are purchased in the U.S. (Cygnus Group). Of those, about 30 million go to the landfill. (Environmental News Network) About 40% of all battery sales occur during the holiday season. (EPA) packaging, wrapping paper, bows and ribbons - it all adds up to an additional 1 million tons a week to our landfills. (Use Less Stuff).

So, what can you do?
First, set a limit on total holiday splurges, including gifts and meals. Decide how much money you can afford to spend and stick with it. Make a promise to yourself that what you buy must come safely out of your December salary or bank account. That means you use cash not credit cards (and certainly not cash advances) and still have the right amount left over for your regular monthly payments – for rent, food, gas, etc.

Second, make some hard decisions. If your shopping list includes several people outside of your immediate family, cut that number down to just a few or none at all. You can bake some cookies or make small gift items (cakes, candies, tree ornaments) for all the people you eliminated after some consideration from your original gift list. Remember spreading holiday cheer doesn’t mean spending beyond what’s comfortable. If others don’t understand this, it’s their problem.

Try giving the gift of sentiment and time. Plan for a nice visit or invite people over to your house or go visit them. Then you can share small gifts and many hugs. Call those who are far away to let them know that you’re thinking of them.

Personalized gifts are an economical substitute for more expensive gifts. A small, thoughtful gift, thinking about the person’s interest is worth more than an expensive gift that someone may never use.

Group volunteering for a charitable cause is another good way to celebrate. And that way you can bring season joy to many more people. This kind of activity can even take the place of holiday parties and gift giving. Tell your friends and family that instead of spending on gifts for you and yours, you want them to join you in a group volunteer day. That way all of you will finish by feeling proud of your efforts. And that's a lot better than choking back a sense of doom, thinking about the bills that, all too soon, are going to roll in.

Homemade gifts that I made this year.

I always try to give my family members gifts that I make by hand.  For the grandchildren, I made little fleece pillows for their beds. The children’s gift pillows were in bright colored prints and personalized by embroidered initials. This was not a fast-to-do project and I spent about a month, off-and-on, completing 6 pillows. The total cost was about $40 for the 6 pillows. (That was more expensive than I planned because I bought the wrong type of fleece the first time around and had to buy material twice. The fabric I didn't use is put away awaiting another project.)

For the adults I made one-of-a kind, Christmas tree ornaments. The ornaments featured messages for holiday cheer and the names of the family members. It only took me one afternoon to buy all I needed for the gifts and one 4-hour morning to make four ornaments.

Here’s how I did it. I started with a 4 inch diameter glass iridescent ball (4 to a package) found at a 50% sale in the week before Christmas at a local hobby store. The globes only have a small opening at the top, so care is needed when handling these items.

Now, I had seen a bunch of different kinds of glass globes filled with a variety of materials – everything from natural moss and little sticks to colorful cotton balls, and clay snowman figures in snow made out of salt and others filled to the top with tiny colored candies.

I chose my gift ornament to be personalized with the names of the family members who would gather around their Christmas tree. I also wanted to celebrate this particular season with mention of Merry Christmas 2012 and Happy New Year 2013.

 

I wanted something printed to express my sentiment.  So, I took out a bunch of old, slightly yellowed printed pages from a couple of books. For color, I bought three of the heavier sets of gift tags, still held together as a page (not separated). The gift tag pages came from the dollar store.

For each ornament, I ink-jet printed a page of text onto a book page - 4 lines of the names of the family members,  4 lines with Merry Christmas 2012 and 4 lines with Happy New Year 2013. I used spray adhesive to glue the gift tags to the printed pages. Then I cut out the printed lines of names and seasonal greetings in thin strips.  I had on hand some light card material in bright green and sky blue and I made more strips to fill up the globe.

I doubled each strip in half without a distinct fold and stuffed them, one by one – fold side down, in the top of the ornament. As I worked, I fluffed up the mix of paper strips with a chopstick. That way I got a nice-looking mix of messages and colors inside each globe.

When I had all the strips in, I returned the metal top of the ornament, added a gift card, and a bow. I put each ornament in a small, pre-decorated cardboard box that I also bought at the dollar store. My total cost for 4 ornaments was about $14, including gift boxes. (I already had red ribbon and the spray glue - those two items together would have been more expensive than the cost of the glass globes.)

MAKE A BEADED PAGE HOLDER FOR A FAVORITE BOOK

My last post was for a 3-strand, beaded necklace. I realize that, for some people, that kind of necklace may be a little complicated. So, if you’re still looking for a craft item that, with just a few skills, works up fast, then a beaded bookmark might be precisely what you want.
Your bookmark can be folk-inspired - like the beaded one described here - or made with a bit of glassy razzle-dazzle. Either way, it’s guaranteed to be a smart-look page holder and one that will add appeal to that book sitting on your bedside table. These markers are also quick gifts to put together and can be customized to include initials or themed charms for special occasions.

Everyone has the need for an extra bookmark. They also can be gift toppers on small or medium-size packages. Best of all, you can make your marker with whatever you have on hand in the way of scraps – any kind of bead and cloth, paper, ribbon, cord, etc. After you’ve planned your bead design, it should take you less than a half-hour to complete your work.

Things you'll need
Scissors
Heavy nylon cord (optionally, could be another material like a narrow ribbon or a cloth strip)
Beading needle (may not be necessary)
Wood or other beads that have an opening wide enough for threading
Metal or wood spacers, optional
Clear nail polish
Masking tape

Instructions
- Cut a 25-inch length of cord. Could be more or less length depending on the size of the book and the number of beads you want to add.
- Put nail polish on one end of the cord to allow for easier threading. Tape one end to a work desk using masking tape. Just beyond the taped down part, make a surgeons knot.
- Thread all the desired beads and spacers on the cord in the order that your design calls for.
- For one end, make simple, tight knots before and after all or most beads or spacers depending on the "look" you have in mind on one end.
- Leave enough cord in-between so that the bookmark ends will extend a bit beyond the cover of your book.
- Do the same knotting and placing of beads on the other end. Usually the two sides do not match, and one end has some larger, heavier beads. The fancier end will be the topside of the bookmark.
- When all the beads are placed, fasten the other end with a surgeon's knot.
-Trim away the excess cord on ends.
- Put nail polish on the end knots and final bit of cord so nothing comes loose or unravels.

All that done, and you're ready to admire your work. Just open your current book to the place you want to read the next time. The marker should be laid out close to the spine of the book. That way there's no damage to the book, and the beads are nicely displayed outside of the cover.

Related posts
DECORATE A T-SHIRT WITH CROCHET AND BEAD CHAINS
A FRAMED PICTURE COLLAGE MAKES AN EYE-CATCHING WALL DISPLAY
MAKE A FAMILY MEMORY BOX
A GIFT IDEA FOR A “CLOTHESLINE” WALL-HANGING MADE FOR A CHILD
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
MAKING HEART-SHAPED PILLOWS FOR LITTLE GIRLS
MAKE BEAUTIFUL BEADS FROM RECYCLED PAPER
CREATE A PERSONALIZED, EMBROIDERED PICTURE FOR A CHILD

DECORATE A T-SHIRT WITH CROCHET AND BEAD CHAINS

Even though I’m a dedicated minimalist when it comes to clothing, occasionally, I'm inspired to adorn things in my closet. Last weekend was one of those times. And, in a crafty binge, I decided to branch out from my usual (of-late) crochet bracelet-making to include a design for an embellished tee. I’d wanted such a tee for some time and spent a little time figuring out how to make one for myself. Here was my thought. I generally don’t like to wear necklaces – especially in this super hot weather. But now and again I want to wear a decorated tee-shirt with something distinctive on the front. And, in a moment of inspiration, I decided to hang strands of beads on two buttons attached to the front of the tee.

Armed with one of my favorite $5 tees, 2 buttons, some beads and heavy nylon thread from my bracelet craft stash, I crocheted three separate strands of beads, tied together in  single chain circle that allows the beads to dangle from the buttons on the either side of the neckline. So, now I have a fancy t-shirt to wear with my two gathered waist, mid-calf skirts. With this new creation, I'll feel comfortably cool but still dressed up enough to go out to a friend’s house in the evening or to a restaurant for dinner. And since the beads are easily detachable from the shirt, there will be no problem for regular machine washing.

All-in-all, the project was an easy one. It took just me a little patience to pull all three strands into one single chain “hook” just the right size. I’m pleased with the results of my efforts.

So, try this idea to spruce up an old tee and create a unique top for a special occasion. The bead chains bring color and texture to the front of the tee without going through the sewn beading process that takes a lot of planning, patience, and skill. Beyond that, if you don’t have the crochet skills to make this project, you might get something of the same effect by wiring together two or three separate chains with beads or links (that you already have) and hanging them off of sewn on buttons. Also, I’ve seen beads that were glued on a tee to form a design. So, that might be another way to get the look of chains without the work of either sewing or crocheting.

How to make the bead-chain for the tee
Materials

Two buttons. I decided on rather plain ½” wood buttons. Flatter, simple ones work better, and won't come off so easily with multiple washings.

Nylon crochet thread - whatever thickness and color(s) you like

Bunch of colorful beads. I used different colors and sizes for each chain.

#2.5 crochet hook (or size that better fits your thread)

Craft needle to thread the beads

Instructions
- Decide how long you want each chain. (Mine dangled a bit, so they were about 14, 16, and 18 inches long.) Multiple that length of each chain by 7 to be sure to have enough material to finish out your crochet. If you're doubling the thread, like I did, then you'll need about 14 times the length of each chain.

- Make your crochet chains, adding beads as you go. (I like to start by tying in the middle bead and crocheting out on both sides. That way, I can make adjustments as I go and end up precisely at the length I've chosen.)  If you’ve never crocheted with beads, there are several good Youtube instructionals for how to do this. That’s how I learned.

- Attach the last two links of each of the three strands of beads to a final short crochet chain. Knot the chain together to form a ring just big enough to go around the button. Do the same for the other side.

That done,  put on your tee, hang the beads off the buttons, and you’re ready to go out in a one-of-a-kind shirt. Also, this would make a nice gift tee for a friend. Or just make up a gift “kit” of buttons and bead chains, along with a sketch or photo of how to wear the chains. Your friend can put it on whatever shirt she chooses and do her own (minimal) handiwork.

Related posts
MAKE A BEADED BOOKMARK FOR A FAVORITE BOOK
A FRAMED PICTURE COLLAGE MAKES AN EYE-CATCHING WALL DISPLAY
MAKE A FAMILY MEMORY BOX
A GIFT IDEA FOR A “CLOTHESLINE” WALL-HANGING MADE FOR A CHILD
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
MAKING HEART-SHAPED PILLOWS FOR LITTLE GIRLS
MAKE BEAUTIFUL BEADS FROM RECYCLED PAPER
CREATE A PERSONALIZED, EMBROIDERED PICTURE FOR A CHILD

SUMMER OK'S A HINT OF CLEAVAGE, BUT NOT A LOT MORE THAN THAT

It’s not even summer yet, but the weather is steaming hot in most of the US. So, fans and air conditioners are humming and bare shoulders and shorts are seen most everywhere. For some women, hot weather also means the lowering of the necklines so that a lot of feminine anatomy is displayed. These women say that cleavage display is fashionable and sexy. But, for others, revealing so much chest borders on indecency. Grandma believes that what she calls “street clothes” should cover the crease between the breasts. On the other hand, the summer clothing to be bought at the stores doesn’t have much fabric at the top. Scarves and camisoles are traditional accessories that solve this problem. Here’s another solution for summer, a clever cleavage hider, that you can knit for yourself.

Before, you read on, I need to mention that Grandma is not some prude, and by no means favors such things as modesty panels or other coercive means of forcing women into restrictive dress codes. But for some of us, enough is enough. And, by that I mean summer heat aside, it’s not a good idea to show off too much of your body. Women say that they want to be accepted as full members of society but dressing as a sexual stereotype isn’t a good way to get respect. A deep cleavage may get you stares and call calls, but it isn't a good way to get people’s respect. Of course, those women who have chosen surgical breast augmentation apparently revel in being sexual stereotypes. Most of them will still want to show off (at least) a part of what money can buy.

Today, Hollywood starlets and actresses for TV glamour ads – cars, liquor, personal electronics, etc. – often do extreme bosom baring, and fashion experts urge women to play the part of “Ms. Cleavage Galore”. They’ve even created a National Cleavage Day. Although this “holiday” was touted as a way to symbolize women’s independence and power, it turns out that the inventors of this event were the makers of Wonderbra and Cosmopolitan . So, likely as not, it was just another commercial trick to applaud consumerism and sell products.

Make your own knitted cleavage hider. 

You can be fashionably dressed without falling into ill-advised clothing choices. A mere hint of cleavage is all we need for summer attire, and even that may not be such a good idea in the office, school or church. For those of you who understand the wisdom of common-sense dressing precautions, there are a few commercial cleavage hiders out there. But there’s a cost involved, and it's wise to make some of the things we want instead of purchasing them - especially, if it can be completed in one afternoon with a single ball of yarn. (And, many of us who have boxes of leftover yarn in the closet, anyway.)

So, here it is - Grandma’s cleavage hider. It’s made like a light-weight kerchief and could even be used as such. It takes only a few hours to complete, and you may want more than one in different colors. And keep this pattern in mind as a quick gift for a friend.

A pattern for a knitted cleavage hider

Materials

- 1 ball of a soft, sport-weight yarn - microfiber or cotton yarn

- Size 6 knitting needles

- Size 5 double pointed knitting needles for i-cord

- Yarn needle to weave in the ends

Abbreviations

Knit (K), YO (increase by yarn over), Kfb, (increase by knitting in the front and back of stitch), Kbf (increase by knitting in back and front of stitch). You can find good instructions for i-cord knitting on the Internet.

Instructions

One size fits all. Gauge is not so important.

Cast on 3 stitches.

Row 1: K all (wrong side)

Row 2: K1, YO, k1 YO, K1.

Row 3: K.

Row 4: K1, Kfb, knit to the last stitch, Kbf, K1.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until piece measures about 8" deep and 12” long, measuring from point to upper edge. You can stop before or continue with the same pattern if you want it shorter or longer, depending on your chest size.

The final rows can be just the same or a decorative variation. I did a row of purl, 2 rows of rib, and then, another row of purl before binding off.

I-cord straps
With the double pointed needles, pick up the final stitches from each of the 4 top rows. Then, in the first round, decrease one of the middle stitches to knit a 3-stitch i-cord. Pick up 4 stitches on the other extreme and knit this i-cord in the same way. Each cord should be at least 10” long.

To create a flatter, woven look, you can increase and decrease on each subsequent i-cord round (3/2/3/2, etc.)

Wear the cleavage hider under your shirt or dress with i-cords tied around the bra straps.

Related posts
GET “KNOOKED” AND MAKE YOURSELF A LACY SCARF.
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UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
LOOM KNITTED CAPS FOR KIDS
THE VERY PRACTICAL AND HARD TO FIND "DICKIE"
BE REALLY “GREEN,” WEARING A BULKY SWEATER
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.

GET “KNOOKED” AND MAKE YOURSELF A LACY SCARF.

Perhaps, if you've been following my blog posts for a while, you’ve noticed that, when it comes to needlework, Grandma Susan goes for gadgetry over mastery. Yes, that's one of my short comings. There have been many posts on knitting and others on crocheting and looming. I learn to use a tool, more or less - at least enough to do beginner level patterns. OK, I admit it. I have a definite limit to my capacity for memorizing and carrying out detailed instructions. I'm also allergic to too much pressure - especially when I do needlework mostly as a way to feel relaxed and not guilty doing "nothing" like watching TV, listening to music, or chatting with other people at informal gatherings. Anyway, I love a new adventure and try out new tools just to see what I can do with them.  So, I make it a point to learn as many methods as possible, hoping for the perfect way to do something - more easily. Does that always work for me? Obviously not, because I'm still not an expert at doing anything. But, anyway, here goes one more post about a new tool – the knook and how to use it to make a lacy scarf.

A while back, I saw the ads for the knook and they caught my attention.  I had to try it. While the knook  seemed to be complicated, it wasn't so much. It’s something like knitting, something like crochet and, actually, it’s a new set of skills. It requires learning some new stitches that are not exactly crocheting or knitting. And, it turns out that it's not a short cut for learning to knit or crochet. It's its own thing. Above all, it's a totally knittable crochet hook and a compact instrument that’s super handy for carrying around in a regular sized purse - a great plus for travelers on public transit and for long distance trips.

Leisure Arts invented it for the crocheter that wants to learn to knit. There's an instructional booklet on how to's for both right and left-handed knooker complete with photos, plus three bamboo knook hooks, each having a small hole on the far end of the hook. There are also 3 colored cords that are threaded through the hole. The cord is used as an extension thread, and rows are knooked right off the loops on the cord.

As to some of its advantages, well I've already mentioned its portability. Also, it’s inexpensive – about the same cost as about 3 regular wooden crochet hooks (and they can be used as traditional crochet hooks when you're not knooking). It's also a pretty nice tool for someone who learned to crochet and has been hesitant to handle two needle knitting or for a knitter who wants to knit part of an item and crochet some other part. Casting on is easy. More on that later. Beyond that, it's really hard to drop a stitch. The cord will save the stitches on the last correct row, and that can save a lot of time.

There are only a very few issues with the Knook. Some people are bothered by dealing with the cord. Another difficulty may be getting a consistent tension for knitting and purling. But, like most methods, it gets easier with practice. For the beginner, making square or rectangular items with just basic stitches shouldn’t pose any real problems. Leisure Arts has how-to videos and free patterns on the Internet. Right now, there aren’t many knooking books available so you’re limited to a small selection of patterns. But, read a few more reviews about the pros and cons and then decide if GETTING KNOOKED will be worth your time.

Getting started
Begin by threading the cord into the eye in the knook. Read through the instructions and check out a video. Choose a medium to bulky weight yarn. The cast on row is done by either traditional long tail knit method or the simple crochet chain method that the knook booklet illustrates. Then, you slip all of your loops onto the cord. To continue, you use the hook to pick up a new row of stitches, inserting the hook into the loops that are now held on the cord. Whether you make knit or purl stitches depends on which way you wrap the yarn around the hook.

The resulting fabric looks like knitting. All in all, it’s great for simple small projects like headbands, scarves, and dish rags. But it wouldn't be much use for sweaters or making socks and mittens. A really skilled knitter would probably be frustrated with the knook.

For me, there was a learning curve - but not such a steep one. Knitting with the knook isn't harder than crocheting and probably easier than knitting with needles. Better tension control and manual skills come with time and practice. After playing around with it for a couple of hours, I caught on to how to maintain tension control and was good to go. I GOT “KNOOKED” and you can, too. I am happy with my new tool and did a simple scarf to practice. I've included its pattern below.

A lacy knooked scarf
Here’s a simple pattern for a knooked scarf that uses only garter stitch and a variant that is knit 2 together (K2TOG), yarn over (YO) for a lacy look. Even as a total knooking novice, I was able to finish the scarf (5" X 50) in about six hours of TV watching - 3 sessions in two days.

Materials
Medium weight yarn - about 5 oz.
Knook, size – 5.5 mm, along with its cord
Yarn needle
Measuring tape
2nd knook or hook - ready to help if stitches slip off or need some other kind of correction.

Instructions
Chain and pick up 19 stitches for the cast on. (Note: Actually, I began with 19 stitches and medium weight yarn but saw that it was going too slow. So I switched to 15 stitches and bulky weight yarn - much easier for me as a novice with this technique.)
Row 1 Knit across
Rows 2-5: Knit all (garter stitch).
Row 6:  *K2TOG, YO* and repeat from * until there is 1 stitch left on the needle, then K1.
Row 7-9: Knit all (garter stitch)
Repeat Rows 6-9 until the scarf is almost the length that you want. End like the beginning with 5 garter stitch rows.

Bind off loosely and use a needle to weave end any tails.
As an option, add fringe to the scarf.

Related posts
Knit up some lacy curtain panels for a seasonal look that’s always in style
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
THE VERY PRACTICAL AND HARD TO FIND "DICKIE"
LOOM KNITTED CAPS FOR KIDS
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.
FAST KNIT THIS LONG BULKY SCARF WITHOUT CIRCULAR NEEDLES.
ROUND IN CIRCLES AGAIN: THE CROCHETED ROUND RUG REVISITED
CROCHET A ROUND RUG

 

Knit up some lacy curtains for a seasonal look that’s always in style

Before the days of full house heating and air conditioning, it was the custom to put down thick carpets and hang heavy drapes on the floors for winter and then to lighten up in spring and summer with lacy curtain panels and colorful throw rugs. Well, Grandma Susan still recommends that practice. Window opening, at least from time to time, continues to be a good idea, helping to get rid of stale house odors and reminding us of the need to wash windows.  And seasonal window dressing is fun. So, how about lightening up in spring and summer with some lacy curtains? Here’s the pattern for lacy curtain panels that I’m knitting right now to cover up the bottom half of the two small windows in my bedroom.



Lacy panel curtains add charm to any room.

 If you’re like me, you don’t want heavy drapes hanging in the windows in your bedroom (and other areas, too) in spring and summertime. My Mom, Dad, sister and I lived with my grandparents for several years when I was small. It was then that I first remember watching the almost scary seasonal behavior, orchestrated by my grandmother, that was known as Spring Housecleaning. In order to give almost everything in the house a good scrub, this annual ritual added up to almost two weeks of drudgery. The end result was a squeaky clean house with new summery fabrics on floors, windows, and elsewhere. The warm season choice for slipcovers was chintz, chenille for bedspreads, and lace for the windows.

I remember that later, when we lived in our own house, Mom followed at least a part of my grandmother’s customs – at least the part about seasonal fabric changes but without so much rigorous Spring Housecleaning. I am proud to say that I carry on the tradition of seasonal fabric changes. And, continuing this practice (with or without much seasonal cleaning)  provides me with a psychological boost that’s very comforting.

Lacy curtains – and not necessarily vintage ones
Lacy curtains allow you to enjoy the beauty of daylight while maintaining some level of privacy. And they have an airy quality that billow so nicely in the breeze. Who wouldn’t enjoy that?  In particular, I’m recommending the old roller shades rolled up to the top in the day and a lacy, flat panel below. It’s a carefree, summery and minimalist style. The best part is that you can make your own curtain panels with a simple knitting pattern. 

Right now, I’m working on curtains for the two windows in my bedroom. My curtains will fly for a while at least, fluttering in the springtime balmy breezes before the temperature here in SO TX reaches 100 degrees every day and only “cools down” to about 85 at night. We sweat during the day but at night we turn on the air conditioning. So, later, my lacy curtains will be hanging motionless – still letting in the light but with the windows kept shut to block the heat of the day (as much as I regret it for aesthetic and ecological reasons). Sigh!

While it probably seems intimidating, you can easily knit your own lace curtains if you have a little time on your hands. It isn't as difficult as it appears. My own windows are quite small and the café-type panels I’m making are 18” X 34” – covering approximately the lower half of the windows. (I venture to say that it will take me 2 to 3 weeks of leisurely knitting to finish the project.)

Condo knitting
Here’s the Condo (two different size) knitting needle deal. The stitches made on the bigger needle are loose and lacy and the stitches on the smaller needle(s) provide structure – thereby avoiding a tendency to see uneven, saggy or pinched, spots. It’s best to use the size needle indicated for your yarn and then choose how much bigger you want the other needle to be. You’ll get different results depending on the size of the needles you use.

Obviously, you’ll want to use a distinctly larger second needle for lacy effects. It’s a technique that was popularized in the 1970s. Some say it became so widespread when the Hippies of those days were busy making lacy – and, they say, somewhat saggy - knit ponchos. Condo knitting makes fabric like that worked by multiples of YO, K (yarn wrap-over, then knit) and STO (stitch two together). That combination creates large open stitches. Luckily, condo knitting is even easier. You knit with both the large gauge needle and the smaller one, making “normal” knitting stitches. No yarning over or stitching together is necessary.

To make this curtain panel, all you need are two basic knitting stitches (knit and purl) and three pattern rows. There’s just one minor variation on one of the knit rows, but I can assure you won’t have any problem doing it. (Personally, I don’t like to knit difficult things that require counting stitches and am always looking for variations on patterns that can satisfy my desire for interesting results without worrying about fancy stitches. What’s more, this is a lacy pattern. As such, it's based on making holes, so small errors in knitting – that almost always plague us - aren’t easily seen.)

Bamboo yarn
This time I’m using bamboo knitting yarn. It’s a fairly new entry item that’s become quite popular. It’s a green product (renewable resource) with a lot of beauty that wears well and even has some natural antibacterial properties. Bamboo, a grass, is harvested and distilled into cellulose; then spun into yarn. It’s somewhat more expensive than most cotton and synthetic yarns.

When knitted up, bamboo yarn is breathably cool and has a shiny luster. It’s also strong and flexible and quite soft. On the negative side, this yarn tends to split a bit, so it’s best to wash by hand. It’s probably a better choice for things that don’t need to be washed so frequently. I like it because it has a cotton string-like quality but drapes better and is ever so much softer.

Make a Lacy Condo Knit Curtain Panel
Supplies
One set of smaller knitting needles, either the long straight kind or circular (I used # 9.)
One larger needle, either the long straight ones or circular  (I used # 17.)
Several skeins of sport-weight or worsted weight yarn – enough for your windows. (I used a total of 3 skeins of worsted weight bamboo yarn in a bright grape color. I began from what I had in my stockpile, and, as often happens, had to buy more at the store before I could finish the project.)
Crochet hook (to pick up lost stitches)
Scissors
Measuring tape
Yarn needle (if you want to hang it on a rod or hem it).

Instructions
Cast on enough stitches for the width you want for your curtain. I used 64 stitches, working on the length – vertical-wise – because my curtains were more wide than long. The panel I'm making is to be flat instead of gathered. You’ll have to make more knit fabric if you want gathered curtains.

Important: Make 5 rows of garter stitch with both small needles at first and to finish. This makes for stronger ends. Be sure to keep the yarn tension somewhat loose on all small needle stitches.

Row 6: Purl all stitches with the bigger needle.

Row 7: Knit all stitches with the small needle. For the entire row, use the variation that one stitch is knitted in the front of the loop and the next one in the back. This twists the stitches and keeps the work more even.

Row 8: Knit all, normally (with the other small needle and all stitches through the front loop).

Repeat Rows 6, 7, and 8 until the knitting is long enough, or wide enough, depending on how you’re knitting your curtain. Allow an additional inch or two for the top and bottom if you plan to run a curtain rod through the top and have a hem.  (I avoided these extra inches by using bright multi-colored, ½ inch grosgrain ribbon, tied in bows, to hang the curtain on the rod and choosing not to hem.)

Finish with garter stitch rows and bind off. Hang up your new curtains and proudly let them flutter in the wind. That should make you very happy.

A RIBBON DECKED, TIE QUILTED PILLOWCASE AND A PILLOW HEADBOARD

As we enter the early spring, at least by the warm temperature at this latitude - at the TX/MX border – I begin to think about my annual trip to the north to see my two sons, daughter-in-law, grandchildren, and other relatives. And as always, I’ve got to make some handmade gifts for my dear ones. Those are usually knitted clothing items or decorations for the rooms of my grandchildren and something from the kitchen for the adults – candy, cookies, jars of jams, etc. This year I’ve come up with the idea to make my two grand daughters faux headboards for their twin beds made from pillows. So, my task - as is the subject of this post - was to come up with a design for some brightly colored, quilted pillowcases that are the focus of this project.

I decided to make two tie quilted pillowcases for each girl – one for the wall and a matching one for the bed. I’ll travel by plane or bus carrying the quilted pillowcases. It will be up to my son and daughter-in-law to provide the pillows and the decorative rods and help me put the rods on the wall. (I hope they won’t mind too much the way I get them to do extra work completing “my projects”.)

Why pillow headboards are popular
Nothing catches the attention more in a bedroom than an attractive headboard. But not all beds come with headboards, and the formal ones that can be purchased or made by a skilled carpenter are expensive. So, we have the option of creating our own informal wall treatments (faux headboards) that, colorfully done, can liven up the decor of any bedroom.

Some faux headboards include curtain rods or other horizontal tubes fixed on the wall above the bed where various attractive things can be hung. And there are several simple methods for making this type of headboard. Here, we focus on the pillow headboard. You won’t need much design talent and only rudimentary carpentry skills to make this one. And a hanging pillow headboard gives any bedroom a comfy, informal look.

More than just attractive, the hanging pillows serve an important purpose. It’s a perfect place to keep extra pillows that, otherwise, are inevitably on the floor in the morning. Beyond that, what with a longer rod, multiple hanging pillows and a round bolster, a regular twin bed can do daytime duty as a daybed.

Tie-quilted pillowcases give your bedroom a country look

About this project
With some pillowcases, ribbon, a nicely designed fabric for the quilted part, quilt backing, needle and thread and a decorative rod, you can manage to nicely display your extra pillows and find them in place (on the wall) every morning. The best part is that you may already have most of the makings for this project in or around your home.

After researching this topic on the Internet, I realized that the main problem with most of these pillow hanging projects was that they were not sturdy enough for small children and would end soon with ripped pillow cases and rods pulled off the wall. That’s why I decided to use both a top and bottom hanging rods with the hardware firmly attached to the wall by anchors or toggle bolts, along with four ribbon loops and buttons on the pillowcase.

Try out this project. You’ll be happy to know that it can be made with inexpensive materials and quickly completed with a minimum of hand sewing. According to my calculations, the approximate cost for each ribbon decked, quilted pillowcase is $20 and about $15 for the matching one for the bed. That, of course, doesn’t include rods or pillows. And you may already have extra pillowcases and fabric or find these items at the thrift store, so you might not have to spend so much at all.

Pattern for a pillow headboard and two quilted pillowcases
Materials
- 2 decorative rods - as wide or a little wider than the bed with their hardware. For economy sake, these rods could also be pipes, dowels, or even small cleaned-up tree limbs for a rustic cabin look. And, instead of commercial rod brackets, you could use industrial sized eye hooks. Open hooks might pose a hazard for children.
- 2 standard-size pillows, not the deluxe or overstuffed kind – one for the bed and the other for the wall.
- 2 standard pillowcases in a solid color
- 6 yards of 1” grosgrain ribbons in one or two colors- that’s about 42” for each of 4 ribbon rounds. (Grosgrain ribbon is relatively expensive and can be substituted with some other kind of ribbon or fabric strips that were the proper size.).
- One yard of plaid or repeating pattern cotton cloth that coordinates with the color of the pillowcases (That’s a half-yard for each pillowcase. Same for padding below.)
- One yard of fleece or other soft fabric for quilt backing. This easily could be something recycled - like an old adult-sized sweatshirt
- 8 medium-sized buttons - can be in coordinating or contrasting colors - for the wall pillow. Having buttons on a bed pillow, while perhaps attractive, isn’t a very practical option.
- Sewing needle and heavy cotton or nylon thread (for the buttons)
- Scissors
- Straight pins and large safety pins
- Measuring tape
- Drill
- Wall anchors or toggle bolts
- Crochet thread and upholstery needle
-  Soft sport-weight yarn for the ties

Instructions
Lay out the two pieces of fabric on a table. Be sure that the batting layer is slightly smaller, maybe a ¼" on all four sides, than the top fabric. Measure all sides to make sure the placement is centered correctly. Pin quilting piece in place.

Fasten safety pins where the ties are to go. It’s a lot easier to adjust the placement of safety pins than to have to try to remove a bunch of ties. Make the ties of all three layers – decorative fabric, batting, and top of pillowcase. You’ll probably need to put a piece of cardboard inside the case to make sure you don’t pin (or tie) the backside to the front side. Then make the 20 ties or the number you want to join the pieces.

Using crochet thread, blanket-stitch the quilted piece in place on the front side of the case.  (I use large, obvious blanket stitches with embroidery thread in a bright color to add even more handmade decoration.)

Put the pillowcase face side down on the worktable. Cut four pieces of 42"-long ribbon. Place each ribbon in position as shown in the picture. Fold the ribbon in such a way that the seam where the two ends meet is exactly in the back of the pillow. There should be 2 inches of ribbon, doubled, extending to accommodate the top rod and another 2 inches, doubled, at the bottom for the bottom rod. Pin the ribbon in place every 4 inches down the front and back from the side of the case. Using fabric glue, attach the ribbons to the case. Hand-sew the two ends to the backside of the case. Repeat with the other three ribbons. (The length of the ribbon extensions might have to be llonger depending on the diameter of the tube you’re using.)

Take care to sew on the buttons, as shown in the picture, through both front and back of the ribbons and pillowcase. Correctly attached buttons will help prevent ribbon slippage and case ripping.

Rod placement should be 4" more than the height of the pillow when it’s flat against the wall above the bed and centered over the bed. Attach the second rod under the first and 2" above the bed. Drill and screw the brackets or other type hooks to the wall using wall anchors or toggle bolts.

Insert a pillow into the case and hang the pillow from the curtain rod. Put the rod on the wall. Run the second rod through the ribbon at the bottom of the case and put it in place.

When your pillow creation is hung up over the bed, everyone will admire your smart handiwork. And your quilted pillow headboard can be the inspiration to do even more country–style decoration.

ROUND IN CIRCLES AGAIN: THE CROCHETED ROUND RUG REVISITED

More than two years ago, I wrote a post on crocheting the round rug - also called the circle rug. That post was a celebration for  having finished my first round rug. (See related post below.) Having made what I thought was a good effort and spent time in what seemed to be endless hours of rounds of crocheted and pulled out stitches, my first rug was quite nice. Since then, somewhat embarrassed to say, I’ve not made any more rugs like that. There are some reasons for that. The first is the fact that I’m much more of a knitter than a crocheter. The second is the rather unfortunate conclusion that my stash of leftover yarn, none of which was wool rug yarn, produced an initially nice-looking rug but one that captured every speck of dirt and lint on the floor and didn’t wear well under foot steps either. I removed it from the floor and later repositioned it on the back of the bench that sits at my dining room table. It looks pretty there. On the other hand, there are two benches at my table, so one is cheerfully decorated with a rug and the other one isn’t.


A round rug will look good any where in your home.

It was the unadorned bench that inspired me to make another circle rug and it’s also the theme of this post. Having spent too much time stressing on knitting better mittens, I was in the mood to do a simple crochet project, so I decided to make a round rug out of a several hunks of leftover yarn. Basically, I didn't follow any written pattern, I just used my K hook, and half-double crocheted in rounds until I had a rug the same size as the other one that’s in our dining room. I’ve learned a few things about crochet over the past months and, happily, my experience with crocheting the current rug is different. So, I wanted to share some ideas that have come to me in the process of making my new rug.

These rustic-looking rugs hold some secrets
What goes around and around (like the rows of this kind of rug) comes around. That’s the story of the circle rug. Ever since the US colonies (and before no doubt), almost every home had one or more round or oval rugs, made from wool yarn or rags, depending on the financial situation of the household. I remember back in the fifties, that the round rug was a popular floor covering for what were the first family rooms – back then we called them “rec-rooms".

Since that time, the handmade round rug has dwindled in popularity and is more associated with grandmas than with the younger generations. Still sometimes they are found as an element of down-home style in a bedroom or sitting room. And there are still plenty of modern-type craftspeople that produce all kinds of crocheted rugs –both room-size, floor rugs and mini-rugs that serve as hot-mats and table covers. The mini-versions make well-appreciated gifts and sell well at craft fairs. Also, many of these round rugs are made from rags or repurposed/leftover yarn, and as such represent the true spirit of trash-to-treasure projects.

Beyond all that and on a more mystical note, it’s said that the old handmade circle rug was symbolic of a never-ending journey and, for the meditative types, the crocheting of each succesive row could be part of a prayer daisy chain (mandala-effect).

Why round rugs are, at first, bothersome to make
A lot of people think that crocheting rugs is a real chore that takes too many hours and calls for expert hooking skills. Well, yes, and no. There are a few common problems that are seen with these projects. First, be prepared to spend a lot of hours learning how to make even looking stitches. Second, sometimes, in the middle of making the rows (really concentric circles), a kind of ripple forms at the outer edges. If that happens, you've used too much yardage. You’ll need to unravel some rows until the rug lies flat and re-do the stitches. You can do one of two things to prevent this situation – usually after the first “disaster” - make fewer extra stitches as you increase or use a tighter tension in all the stitches. Third, if you see a sort of big bubble forming somewhere, then your outer rows have too little yardage. You’ll need to correct the problem by ripping out some rows and then using a looser tension or making additional stitches. All in all, you don’t have to see exact circles or absolute flatness as you crochet your rug. You can overcome minor variations from “perfection” by washing the finished item and letting it dry flat.

Having experience all of the above bothersome moments, I offer here a simple patterns and some hints about what I’ve learned while making two crocheted round rugs. Here's the pattern for this rug. You'll see that this one varies a bit from the one described in a previous post.

Pattern for a 39″ crocheted round rug
Materials
Size 10.5 or K crochet hook
About 8 large skeins of rug yarn or the equivalent in a variety of leftover, worsted weight yarns
Darning needle
Measuring tape (a gauge for width of concentric circles and to let you know when you've finished)
Scissors

Instructions
Use a double strand of yarn throughout. It’s easier if you take the trouble to wind both strands of yarn into balls. This helps in maintaining even tension in your stitches.

- To make the center ring, attach the strands of yarn to the hook with a slipstitch and chain five stitches. Join the chain to create a circle. Pull tight into something of a knot.

- For the second row, insert the hook into the stitches of the center ring instead of into the outer part of the stitches and single crochet.

- Make half double crochet stitches with a few increases at equal distance in successive rows and chain one stitch (upwards) to start new rows.

- Keep adding rows until your rug reaches 39 inches or the width you decide to make it.

- For the final row, single crochet all stitches for a tighter edge. When the last row is complete join the yarn to the first stitch in the next to last row with a slipstitch. Cut off about 5 inches of remaining yarn and fasten off by pulling the yarn through the last loops on the hook. Finish off the rug by pulling all loose threads toward the back. Use the darning needle to weave the ends into the stitches.

- You can stop there with what’s sure to be a nice-looking rug or adorn it more by adding a fringe made up of strands of all the colors in your rug or only with the color of the last rows. Or you can make a looped edge (single crochet paired with two chains) to finish off your rug.

Notes
If at the end you discover something of a loose hole in the exact middle of your rug, you can chain stitch an even smaller circle (with just a few stitches) and “plug up’ the hole by sewing the smaller one inside the larger.

When yarn rugs get dusty, just take them outside and beat them. When really dirty, small rugs can be cleaned in the washing machine on gentle cycle and line dried. Larger rugs should be sent to the dry cleaners.

I never use a stitch marker and continue row on row making my color changes visible. This gives the rug a bit of a spiral look instead of exact circles. I also don’t worry about differences in number of rows with each color since one of my goals is to use up my yarn stash. I like these little variations because they give the product a more ‘artistic” or folksy look. You can be careful with these details if you wish. If you do, your rug will look more “traditional” than mine.

Note:
While I said (above) that you would need only 2 strands of worsted weight, I might have been wrong. As I continued crocheting my rug, I found that some of the yarn that was supposed to be worsted weight was lighter than what I started with and ended up using 3 strands in order to make it match in thickness. So, if you're using different weight yarns, like I was, you'll probably need to make the same kind of adjustments.

Related posts
Crochet a round rug
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
EMBRACE A SIMPLE HOME
LEARN TO MAKE SMART, THRIFTY AND EVER SO USEFUL TIE QUILTS
CHECK OUT THIS QUILTED TABLE RUNNER IN BRIGHT SUMMER COLORS