LOOMED KNIT BABY STROLLER BLANKET.

Yay! – I’ve just finished this baby stroller blanket. 

There is something exciting about creating a gift to celebrate a baby’s birth. Of course, in this case it is even more special. The baby is being welcomed as a new addition to our own family – for me: grandchild number four, grandson number two. So, it was a joy to knit a gift for him. He was born last weekend - healthy but a couple of weeks early - and that's my excuse for not having sent it off yet. The mailing will be done ASAP.

In my mind, every baby needs a special baby blanket, something that's all their own. I not only believe this now but always have. So, along with my sons and grand kids, that makes six knitted baby blankets that I've made over my lifetime.  Oh! I also have made  blankets as gifts for other babies, but most of those tend to be made of soft material with a crocheted edge. Nice, but not so much work went into them.

Did I follow a specific pattern so I would know how big the blanket will turn out?  Turns out that I didn’t. I winged it. The result was a cover about 40 inches long and 28 inches wide - big enough to classify as a stroller blanket from what I've seen on the Internet.

The style, I hope, is trendy and chic – a colorful striped pattern that can grow with baby instead of seeming “babyish.”

The yarn is an acrylic – the better for frequent washing - of medium weight, doubled. It’s made of white yarn – along with four bright colors (red, green, blue and yellow).  I pulled out the long green loom that I’ve been using for the past five years.

You can might guess from the photo, the cover was knitted as a flat panel.  I e-wrapped the pegs all the way down, around and across the back side of the loom, including all the pegs except one at the end. 

The pattern was unusual.  It was knitted in a single piece,  consisting of a series of colored stripes -  that were all to be three rows wide. The white spaces between each of the stripes were to be 6, along with 8 white rows on each end. The reality was that I lost count – several times - and the stripes turned out to be a bit irregular. But I did manage to keep the order of the colors that I planned and the slight irregularity makes it look nicer - a bit like homespun – or at least I think so.

Easy to make loomed knit baby blanket.

The upside to this kind of knitting? It's really easy. You are basically e-wrapping and knitting over the whole thing. Total time was about 20 hours – done leisurely over four weeks.

Was there any down side on the loom knitting? Not so much. Other than a slight shrinkage that had to do with yarn wrap tension and the cast-on edge rolled a little. Again, I wasn't concerned as I knew beforehand about these limitations and planned to add a border all around to finish it off. It was really no problem to do the half-double crochet edge that gave a more finished look.  Another down side of loom knitting came from an obvious right side and a  less finished looking backside. But, now that it’s completed, the backside seems O.K.

Reminiscing now: my sons (now fathers, themselves) really loved their handmade knitted blankets.  In the toddler years, they carried around their "blankies" as a comfort when taking a nap or settling down to bed at night. Unfortunately, those blankets are long gone. So many years have passed. 

Each of the three older grand kids also had their own soft, handmade baby blanket.  But the grand kids are all still young and I suppose that their newborn blankets are being kept somewhere - or better yet, have been passed on to other family additions.

For now, I hope that my daughter-in-law will remember this blanket and tuck it around the baby in the stroller on cool/cold mornings.  When he doesn’t need it for outside use, it can be folded in half and placed on the foot of his bed. Of course, I realize that he will have many lovely blankets, but I bet only a very few of them (or, possibly, none of the others) were made specially for him.

UPCYCLE A FLEECE PULLOVER TO MAKE MITTENS & A SCARF

I’d been reading craft blogs about making mittens as a great way to upcycle outdated sweaters. I like the results and had put that on my “wanna-do” list for gift-making ideas.

So, this past month I decided to make mittens from upcycled sweaters as Christmas gifts for all three grandchildren. My search for suitable thrift store sweaters didn’t produce such good results. But I did find several fleece pullovers that had the fuzziness and weight that seemed right for mitten making. Fleece also turned out to be a good choice because the cuts don't fray.

The fleecy children’s clothing I found turned out to be more colorful and cheaper than those for grownups. So, I bought three pullovers in children’s sizes. For the girls, a lavender (shown) and striped print pullovers, and a solid red one for the boy.

A day or two later I took the pullovers and sat down to cut out the mittens. I saw that I had enough material to cut the mittens out of the sleeves and that I would have a lot of material left over. I could turn these left overs into something else. That’s when I decided to make matching scarves – infinity type for the two girls and one long one - sewn together as two rectangular pieces - for the boy. I’ll be describing the design of the mittens and infinity scarf here and won’t elaborate on the boy’s scarf since it was simple one that wouldn’t present any particular problem. Time needed for this project was about two afternoons, one for the mittens and another for the scarf.

Materials for child-sized mittens and scarf

• child’s fleece pullover in good condition
• Marker or pen for tracing
• Scissors
• straight or safety pins
• colored medium weight yarn
• crewel embroidery sewing needle

Steps for mittens

Find a mitten size: The mittens need to fit the hands of the child that you have in mind. The best would be to have a trace of the child’s hand. But, if the child is at a distance and you don’t know how long it might take to get someone else to trace and send out a hard copy, then , you’ll have to look for a pattern – usually you can find one on a craft blog in toddler’s, as well as small and larger children sizes.

Flip over and trace: Turn the pullover inside out and lay it flat on a table. Begin by carefully cutting up the pieces of the pullover. Separate the neckline and sleeves from the torso. You want to save the biggest pieces possible. You will probably be able to use the sleeves for mittens. Trace the mitten shape around it with a marker or pen. Add about a half-inch all the way around your hand to allow for seams. Leave plenty of room for the thumb inside each mitten and an inch or two below the palm to cover the wrist. Make sure to have the bottom of the mitten wide enough so that the hand can easily fit through.

Pin it and cut: Secure the front and back layers with several pins. This will keep the two layers even while you cut and sew. Cut it out, following the shape of the pattern. You will need two pieces for each mitten. (I avoided using two pieces by folding the sleeve material in half and making a mitten that looked somewhat like a miniature kitchen mitt.)

Sew: Thread your needle with the yarn and do a blanket stitch along the edge – with the right sides on the outside. Then, if you like, crochet a slip stick in a second round to emphasize the decoration.

In case the pullover sleeve didn’t have a particular cuff finish or you were forced to use a portion of the sleeve that was above the cuff, you can make one. Do it the same way as you do the seams by sewing around the entire cuff and finishing off with a single or crochet slipstitch. (That’s what I did.)

Repeat: Repeat all steps on the other pullover sleeve for the second mitten. These mittens don't have a a particular left and right presentation.

Steps for the infinity scarf (One size fits all.)

Cut: Lay the pullover on a flat surface. You will be working with the body of the sweater. All you have to do is cut a straight line underneath the armpits of the sweater. Cut off the finished edge from the bottom of the sweater or leave it finished as is. You can also fold your piece to make it double weight. It's your call.

Stretch it out: Just stretch out the material a little bit and pull it apart. This helps avoid a stretching out after you’ve put an edge on it.

Sew and/or crochet an edging: Sew a blanket stitch to hem the pieces - both top and bottom. You can stop there or continue another round with a single crochet or slipstitch like that used on the mittens.

And, there, you have it – mittens and fleece scarf, ready to gift wrap.

EASY-KNIT BED SHAWL

A knitted bed shawl offers comfort & warmth.

Spring may be just around the corner but we will still have cool nights for quite some time. And while we like to read, knit or watch television in bed, it can be just too cold in the bedroom to sit up in bed for more than a few minutes. Also, when we are ready to sleep, it's not easy to keep the heavy bed covers pulled up all the way to the head. So, while it may be considered an old-fashioned clothing item, a warm bed shawl is a great thing to have.

Here’s a practical pattern for a bed shawl that can be made up in less than a week working only a couple of hours per day. The wrap is put on over the head and worn just draped over the shoulders with out the need for buttons or ties. It's a kind of a short poncho, worn with the diagonal points in the front and back.

You can make one for yourself. It will also make a great gift for a family member or friend. I’m planning to make several in the next few months to give as gifts. This kind of wrap also offers warmth and comfort to people who are in need of special support as they face illnesses or other serious problems in life.

The bed shawl shown in the photo is a vintage item that I found at a thrift shop. (I haven't finished making one for myself but I'll post a pic of it when it's ready.)

I’ve studied this particular shawl a bit to see how it’s made. It turns out to be a very simple pattern that can go together fast. Here are my instructions for making this kind of wrap.

Bed shawl instructions
As before mentioned, I tend to give only general ideas about how to go about these projects. They are not full instructions, but general guides, given to encourage you to knit or crochet simple garments and other useful things for the home. Besides, once you get motivated, you will find dozens of detailed patterns on the Internet for knitting and crocheting almost anything that you can think of.

Use size 8 straight needles and worsted weight yarn in 4 different colors or, perhaps, for a more updated look you might choose varying tones of the same color. This is good project to help use up yarn in your project leftovers bag. It can probably be done with a total of about 12 ounces of medium weight worsted yarn. You'll work with a single strand. You might also crochet the squares. If you opt for crochet, it might be better to use a light weight worsted yarn and the corresponding hook.

The bed shawl is made of four 11-inch squares crocheted together. That makes for a total of about 24 inches square plus fringe. You can knit your shawl a longer length, if you want, and use any combination of colors for the squares.

To knit one very much like the one shown, you might use a basket stitch. But, lacking patience, the basket stitch is too complicated for me. So, I expect I’ll make the squares in a simpler way. Here I’m thinking about using either the twisted stockinette or the seed stitch. Most any stitch, simple or complex, will work out fine. You’ll find instructions for making different kinds of knit stitches in books and on the Internet. 

Begin the shawl making the first square. Cast on 48 stitches (or the number of stitches that you need to make the length you want). Keep knitting these rows until the piece is square. Then bind off the stitches. Make all four squares. Then crochet the edges of the squares with a simple edging stitch using the same or contrasting yarn. Remember you should always crochet edges on the front side. Weave the shawl together with the same color yarn as the edges, leaving a four-inch opening on all adjacent squares for the neck opening.

Finally, add an outer decorative edge to keep the edges of the squares from rolling up. You can put a simple fringe on the edges or you can crochet a decorative edge. Your shawl will look better if you use a bold color for the fringe.  There are plenty of instructions for making fringes and decorative edges on the Web.

When the edging is finished, weave in any ends of yarn. Wash the bed shawl in warm water, towel dry it, and block it by pinning it to a towel laid out flat. As it dries, check it to make sure that it maintains its overall square shape.

MY OFFICE SUPPLIES, SCRAPBOOK, MEMENTOS, AND GREETING CARD DRAWER SHRUNK TO SHOEBOX SIZE

As you have seen from earlier posts, I fully believe in peace and harmony in the home. That's why I've been busy these past months striving for minimalism in my home. Among my first projects were getting rid of extra furniture items, excess bed and towel linen, and deplasticizing my kitchen.  So, recently, I knew I would have to tackle the junk in my drawers. And, just  a few days ago,  lacking more pressing things to do, I decided to open up one of my drawers and organize it.  My goal was to do this in one afternoon. It was after lunch and I hadn't done much of anything on such a rainy Thursday.  I started by opening the lower drawer of the two-drawer file cabinet in my bedroom.

I have had to face a lot of challenges in my transitioning to a lighter lifestyle and I've found that tidying takes a lot longer than you would think. Can you imagine that, at first, I thought paring down a whole house would take only a few months?  But the year is almost over and the more I work at it, the more I find major loads of junk that don’t need to be around my home. Looking hard for some justification, I like to blame this slow progress on my husband, who isn’t totally on board for this adventure. But, then, again I, personally, have a lot that I still need to do - what with the cleanliness, the organization, and the day-to-day clutter that I also help create.

It's good to have organized file drawers.

But, I did something today – I worked on clearing out misplaced things in the bottom drawer of my file cabinet. What I found was a unsettling combination of craft and scrapbook materials, English as a Second Language lessons (now dusty from my teaching days), pens, sundry office supplies, assorted greeting cards, and other mementos that I had “filed away” for some later date when I could get to them. Oh, and also I found a few knitting and craft patterns that didn’t’ make their way to the four large scrapbooks that I've dedicated to dreaming about and documenting my handiwork projects.

What went and what stayed.

I saw some improvement as the afternoon progressed. I organized and got rid of almost all the things that don’t have any place in this drawer, including, of course, my husband's misplaced files. That was easy enough.

I also discovered what looked like 100 greeting cards for all occasions and blank notes. Not being much of a greeting card person, that supply could easily take me well into my next lifetime.  Obviously, most had to go. I chose to set aside all the specific greeting cards for give away and keep about thirty with nice designs and a white page inside. Those – in my own handwritten note - can be used for birthdays, anniversaries, get-well and even for condolences.  They should last me a while and when they run out, I plan to buy totally blank note cards and print up the fronts with my own colorful artwork.

Office supplies continue to make up most of the space in the drawer and that’s the way it should be. I tossed the extras. For example, I kept only one of the four big letter stencil sets and about a third of the pens that I had collected over the past couple of years. Dried up glue and no longer working scissors quickly found their way to the trash can.

My personal documents were transferred to the top file drawer that I, as yet, haven’t organized the way I want.  Now, the ESL file is up there, too.

Crafty pages have been reassigned to scrapbooks on a shelf.

Smallish sundry mementos and sewing materials have found their way to a few boxes in the closet where I usually stash them.

I have to admit that I still have a smallish stash of pens and other highly useful office accessories near my desk and consequently, outside the bottom drawer. But, given their utility – by proximity – for the time being, they'll have to stay where they are.

Oh, and did I really get everything down to the sought after shoebox full? Well, that was just me, daydreaming, again. In truth, I haven’t accomplished all that I set out to do -- yet. But I now have a large pile of throw-outs and destined-for-the-thrift-shop that accounts for about half the former contents of the drawer. So, I guess it will take another rainy day inspiration to finish the task. And just cheating a bit - I have a couple of over sized boot boxes, on reserve, that might fit the shrunken contents of my second file drawer - whenever I get back to work on it.

EVERYDAY COTTON PLACEMATS DRESS UP WITH A CROCHET EDGE.

Inexpensive cotton ribbed place mats can look a lot better with a bright colored crochet edge. And that's what I did. I edged two mats with leftover multicolor cotton yarn, each with about 3 hours work.

The black mats were dollar store finds. But, at home after an initial wash , I realized that they were really too narrow to serve for table settings . What's worse, the edges didn't want to stay flat after laundering, and I simply DON'T IRON things like tablecloths, place mats, and napkins. I was disgusted. I definitely didn't like the mats on the table. I simply put them away and, eventually, used one as a decoration on a shelf. It looked OK there.

 

But then I reminded myself that I had bought the two and that they were supposed to be place mats. So, I decided to do some mat-improvement strategy. From there, I looked at place mats in an Internet search and found some pretty ones with crocheted edges.

 I wanted a regular edge, not a lacy one, something that could take a lot of wear and wash nicely. That meant a medium weight cotton yarn would be the best bet. So, for the yarn, I chose a ball of cotton yarn with variegated colors - in beige, rose, and magenta. The yarn was a happy find in my yarn stash bag.  And, to my mind, the mats looked very well dressed up with the crochet rows I added. The cotton yarn I used is sturdy and washable and no doubt will be cherry and bright a long time after the mats become faded and limp.

 

Supposedly, the standard sizing for table mats is: 14 in. x 20 in. The ones I made, with edging and all, still came short of the standard and measured in at 12 in. x 18 in. They were somewhat smallish, but, happily, big enough for the undersized dining table that I have.

 

The total cost was $2  for two mats, plus what was something less than a ball of cotton yarn (less than $3 when purchased new). So, the total project cost of two mats was less than $5. I think that's a good price because the nicer store-bought place mats can cost as much as $5 each.

Set a prettier table with dressed up place mats.

I'm pleased with the results of my efforts and I'll probably make 2 more so I can, occasionally, set a 4-person table. ( Luckily, I was able to find 2 more in a quick run to the dollar store. But, as you probably know already, it's always best to buy ALL the materials for your projects at once. Otherwise. you're asking for trouble when you try to locate more of the same materials in subsequent store searches.)

 

Materials

- Cotton ribbed place mat or any mat that has a wide enough weave to allow for easy crochet hook use.
- Crochet hook with a number of about 1.5 (so that you can easily pierce through fabric)
- Cotton yarn
- Scissors

Crocheted border

Pierce fabric about a quarter inch from the edge and knot.

Then do a single crochet, maintaining the quarter inch base, all the way around the mat. Use three passes in single stitch at the corners. (That's a way of easing in the transition from one side to another.)

With that crocheted base, you can add any border you want. There are many good videos that show how to make different kinds of crocheted edges.

I chose to do a four-link chains between stitches on the second row. It looked pretty good after that  row but I decided to continue on. I liked it even better with a third row of chains that connected in the middle of the second row chains.

 

I also made three passes in single stitch to ease in the corners of the second and third rows.

 

Sometimes, it's better to put only a 3-link chain to compensate for differences in stitch spacing. That occurs, now and again, and is especially likely when nearing the corners.

 

CHARITY KNITTING CIRCLES ARE USEFUL & FUN.

I can remember a time a few decades ago when women formed circles for all kinds of activities. It was a way of strengthening relationships among women, most of whom were unrelated by blood or marriage. And it gave them an excuse to meet regularly as friends and neighbors and work for special purposes. My own mother was part of a circle for decades. They called themselves the "Safety Pin Club" because they all had babies and small children at around the same time. When they got started, their main purpose was to offer each other emotional support and useful hints on how to care for the young ones. The group was diverse and included Catholics, Protestants, and Greek Orthodox from several different national backgrounds. They forged long-term friendships and were still meeting as a group when they had grown children and grandchildren. Most of the time their activities were social but they also got involved in a few charitable activities over the years.

In the last part of the 20th century, what with more freedom for women and their incorporation in the workplace, fewer women seemed to have the need or time for social or charitable circles. Nowadays, many young women don't even consider the need for such a thing. But, for others, both young and old, there are still good reasons to organize themselves and meet - just as women.

Knitters often form circles to reach out other knitters. Whether wanting to learn new stitches or pass on needlework skills, the warm companionship of a knitting group enriches their love of knitting and comes to be an important part of social life. Members of the group also do more than sit around knitting. They share details of their lives, talk about their husbands, children, pets, favorite recipes and so on. Many circles are neighborhood clubs, while others are linked with churches, or workplaces. Some groups meet to knit while watching movies. Others are for mothers with small children. Men who knit sometimes join these circles. Whatever brings them together, everyone contributes to the conversation and shares knitting magazines, patterns and stitchery know-how. 

Recently, a number of women's circles have formed related to charity. And one of the most popular charities involves knitting and crocheting clothing or blankets and donating them to the homeless or the sick. These groups answer a desire to help those in need, but in a way that means more to them than just giving or collecting money for needy causes. And, for some, it's probably the best way to be charitable because they are using their time and  talents when they don't have much extra money to donate to needy causes.

Charity circles tend to be more open than those belonging to particular churches or formal clubs.They are more egalitarian because their primary focus is on helping others in need in the community and secondly, on making new friends who love to do some of the same things. They tend to be informal and free clubs - some meet weekly, others bi-monthly or monthly and welcome members of all ages.

Obviously, these circles respond to a real need to help. At the same time, they give women a sense of satisfaction by being part of a group involved in a common effort. While no group, small or large, can ever begin to do enough, it's the spiritual principle that counts here. Each knitted cap or scarf or blanket can mean the difference of a homeless person surviving a cold winter night, just as meals served to the hungry are really gifts from God. Those who get involved in these kinds of charities consider themselves blessed by being able to help in delivering those gifts. When they do things with other people's welfare in mind, from knitting a prayer shawl for a friend to making a blanket for a homeless person, they see themselves as using their loving concern to contribute to  social justice and peace.

Interested in doing something like this? Well, don't wait. Get involved right away. If you don't find a knitting group in your area, start out by seeking information at a local knitting shop, signing up for charity knitting newsletters and reading columns in knitting magazines. They are also a number of websites that give information on knitting groups nationwide. Some are done as online communities where people never meet face-to-face, but, instead, send in their contributions to a central place which takes care of the distribution to places and people in need. They keep in touch through photos and comments on these websites.

If you want to learn more about charity knitting, you can read a book or books on the subject. One good book, written by Betty Christiansen, is titled: Knitting for Peace: Make the World a Better Place One Stitch at a Time.

The overall goal of charity knitting groups is to bring comfort and a smiles to recipients and let them know that someone is thinking of them - oftentimes someone they'll never meet. But the people invoved in these activites see their work as more than just a way of supporting those who need cheering up because of illness or social vulnerability. They also consider it to be a spiritual activity just as much as prayer and meditation are. It's a particular way of showing love for others and commitment to a better world - one that is pledged to making and sharing beautiful and useful things. It's all part of a new spirit of living the abundant life and making the world a kinder place.

Related posts
THE STRANGE CASE OF THE SOMETIMES PINK GERANIUMS.YOUR VERY BEST DREAM IS WAITING FOR YOU UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
IT’S BABY BLANKET KNITTING TIME AGAIN
"HELLO, HELLO. ARE YOU THERE?"
REDEFINE YOUR PRIORITIES, REMAKE YOUR LIFE
KNIT A TRIANGULAR PRAYER SHAWL
BE REALLY “GREEN,” WEARING A BULKY SWEATER
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.
 

DECORATE A T-SHIRT WITH CROCHET AND BEAD CHAINS

Even though I’m a dedicated minimalist when it comes to clothing, occasionally, I'm inspired to adorn things in my closet. Last weekend was one of those times. And, in a crafty binge, I decided to branch out from my usual (of-late) crochet bracelet-making to include a design for an embellished tee. I’d wanted such a tee for some time and spent a little time figuring out how to make one for myself. Here was my thought. I generally don’t like to wear necklaces – especially in this super hot weather. But now and again I want to wear a decorated tee-shirt with something distinctive on the front. And, in a moment of inspiration, I decided to hang strands of beads on two buttons attached to the front of the tee.

Armed with one of my favorite $5 tees, 2 buttons, some beads and heavy nylon thread from my bracelet craft stash, I crocheted three separate strands of beads, tied together in  single chain circle that allows the beads to dangle from the buttons on the either side of the neckline. So, now I have a fancy t-shirt to wear with my two gathered waist, mid-calf skirts. With this new creation, I'll feel comfortably cool but still dressed up enough to go out to a friend’s house in the evening or to a restaurant for dinner. And since the beads are easily detachable from the shirt, there will be no problem for regular machine washing.

All-in-all, the project was an easy one. It took just me a little patience to pull all three strands into one single chain “hook” just the right size. I’m pleased with the results of my efforts.

So, try this idea to spruce up an old tee and create a unique top for a special occasion. The bead chains bring color and texture to the front of the tee without going through the sewn beading process that takes a lot of planning, patience, and skill. Beyond that, if you don’t have the crochet skills to make this project, you might get something of the same effect by wiring together two or three separate chains with beads or links (that you already have) and hanging them off of sewn on buttons. Also, I’ve seen beads that were glued on a tee to form a design. So, that might be another way to get the look of chains without the work of either sewing or crocheting.

How to make the bead-chain for the tee
Materials

Two buttons. I decided on rather plain ½” wood buttons. Flatter, simple ones work better, and won't come off so easily with multiple washings.

Nylon crochet thread - whatever thickness and color(s) you like

Bunch of colorful beads. I used different colors and sizes for each chain.

#2.5 crochet hook (or size that better fits your thread)

Craft needle to thread the beads

Instructions
- Decide how long you want each chain. (Mine dangled a bit, so they were about 14, 16, and 18 inches long.) Multiple that length of each chain by 7 to be sure to have enough material to finish out your crochet. If you're doubling the thread, like I did, then you'll need about 14 times the length of each chain.

- Make your crochet chains, adding beads as you go. (I like to start by tying in the middle bead and crocheting out on both sides. That way, I can make adjustments as I go and end up precisely at the length I've chosen.)  If you’ve never crocheted with beads, there are several good Youtube instructionals for how to do this. That’s how I learned.

- Attach the last two links of each of the three strands of beads to a final short crochet chain. Knot the chain together to form a ring just big enough to go around the button. Do the same for the other side.

That done,  put on your tee, hang the beads off the buttons, and you’re ready to go out in a one-of-a-kind shirt. Also, this would make a nice gift tee for a friend. Or just make up a gift “kit” of buttons and bead chains, along with a sketch or photo of how to wear the chains. Your friend can put it on whatever shirt she chooses and do her own (minimal) handiwork.

Related posts
MAKE A BEADED BOOKMARK FOR A FAVORITE BOOK
A FRAMED PICTURE COLLAGE MAKES AN EYE-CATCHING WALL DISPLAY
MAKE A FAMILY MEMORY BOX
A GIFT IDEA FOR A “CLOTHESLINE” WALL-HANGING MADE FOR A CHILD
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
MAKING HEART-SHAPED PILLOWS FOR LITTLE GIRLS
MAKE BEAUTIFUL BEADS FROM RECYCLED PAPER
CREATE A PERSONALIZED, EMBROIDERED PICTURE FOR A CHILD

SUMMER OK'S A HINT OF CLEAVAGE, BUT NOT A LOT MORE THAN THAT

It’s not even summer yet, but the weather is steaming hot in most of the US. So, fans and air conditioners are humming and bare shoulders and shorts are seen most everywhere. For some women, hot weather also means the lowering of the necklines so that a lot of feminine anatomy is displayed. These women say that cleavage display is fashionable and sexy. But, for others, revealing so much chest borders on indecency. Grandma believes that what she calls “street clothes” should cover the crease between the breasts. On the other hand, the summer clothing to be bought at the stores doesn’t have much fabric at the top. Scarves and camisoles are traditional accessories that solve this problem. Here’s another solution for summer, a clever cleavage hider, that you can knit for yourself.

Before, you read on, I need to mention that Grandma is not some prude, and by no means favors such things as modesty panels or other coercive means of forcing women into restrictive dress codes. But for some of us, enough is enough. And, by that I mean summer heat aside, it’s not a good idea to show off too much of your body. Women say that they want to be accepted as full members of society but dressing as a sexual stereotype isn’t a good way to get respect. A deep cleavage may get you stares and call calls, but it isn't a good way to get people’s respect. Of course, those women who have chosen surgical breast augmentation apparently revel in being sexual stereotypes. Most of them will still want to show off (at least) a part of what money can buy.

Today, Hollywood starlets and actresses for TV glamour ads – cars, liquor, personal electronics, etc. – often do extreme bosom baring, and fashion experts urge women to play the part of “Ms. Cleavage Galore”. They’ve even created a National Cleavage Day. Although this “holiday” was touted as a way to symbolize women’s independence and power, it turns out that the inventors of this event were the makers of Wonderbra and Cosmopolitan . So, likely as not, it was just another commercial trick to applaud consumerism and sell products.

Make your own knitted cleavage hider. 

You can be fashionably dressed without falling into ill-advised clothing choices. A mere hint of cleavage is all we need for summer attire, and even that may not be such a good idea in the office, school or church. For those of you who understand the wisdom of common-sense dressing precautions, there are a few commercial cleavage hiders out there. But there’s a cost involved, and it's wise to make some of the things we want instead of purchasing them - especially, if it can be completed in one afternoon with a single ball of yarn. (And, many of us who have boxes of leftover yarn in the closet, anyway.)

So, here it is - Grandma’s cleavage hider. It’s made like a light-weight kerchief and could even be used as such. It takes only a few hours to complete, and you may want more than one in different colors. And keep this pattern in mind as a quick gift for a friend.

A pattern for a knitted cleavage hider

Materials

- 1 ball of a soft, sport-weight yarn - microfiber or cotton yarn

- Size 6 knitting needles

- Size 5 double pointed knitting needles for i-cord

- Yarn needle to weave in the ends

Abbreviations

Knit (K), YO (increase by yarn over), Kfb, (increase by knitting in the front and back of stitch), Kbf (increase by knitting in back and front of stitch). You can find good instructions for i-cord knitting on the Internet.

Instructions

One size fits all. Gauge is not so important.

Cast on 3 stitches.

Row 1: K all (wrong side)

Row 2: K1, YO, k1 YO, K1.

Row 3: K.

Row 4: K1, Kfb, knit to the last stitch, Kbf, K1.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until piece measures about 8" deep and 12” long, measuring from point to upper edge. You can stop before or continue with the same pattern if you want it shorter or longer, depending on your chest size.

The final rows can be just the same or a decorative variation. I did a row of purl, 2 rows of rib, and then, another row of purl before binding off.

I-cord straps
With the double pointed needles, pick up the final stitches from each of the 4 top rows. Then, in the first round, decrease one of the middle stitches to knit a 3-stitch i-cord. Pick up 4 stitches on the other extreme and knit this i-cord in the same way. Each cord should be at least 10” long.

To create a flatter, woven look, you can increase and decrease on each subsequent i-cord round (3/2/3/2, etc.)

Wear the cleavage hider under your shirt or dress with i-cords tied around the bra straps.

Related posts
GET “KNOOKED” AND MAKE YOURSELF A LACY SCARF.
FAST KNIT THIS LONG BULKY SCARF WITHOUT CIRCULAR NEEDLES.
REPURPOSE OLD STRETCH PANTS INTO SHORTS & HEADBANDS
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
LOOM KNITTED CAPS FOR KIDS
THE VERY PRACTICAL AND HARD TO FIND "DICKIE"
BE REALLY “GREEN,” WEARING A BULKY SWEATER
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.

GET “KNOOKED” AND MAKE YOURSELF A LACY SCARF.

Perhaps, if you've been following my blog posts for a while, you’ve noticed that, when it comes to needlework, Grandma Susan goes for gadgetry over mastery. Yes, that's one of my short comings. There have been many posts on knitting and others on crocheting and looming. I learn to use a tool, more or less - at least enough to do beginner level patterns. OK, I admit it. I have a definite limit to my capacity for memorizing and carrying out detailed instructions. I'm also allergic to too much pressure - especially when I do needlework mostly as a way to feel relaxed and not guilty doing "nothing" like watching TV, listening to music, or chatting with other people at informal gatherings. Anyway, I love a new adventure and try out new tools just to see what I can do with them.  So, I make it a point to learn as many methods as possible, hoping for the perfect way to do something - more easily. Does that always work for me? Obviously not, because I'm still not an expert at doing anything. But, anyway, here goes one more post about a new tool – the knook and how to use it to make a lacy scarf.

A while back, I saw the ads for the knook and they caught my attention.  I had to try it. While the knook  seemed to be complicated, it wasn't so much. It’s something like knitting, something like crochet and, actually, it’s a new set of skills. It requires learning some new stitches that are not exactly crocheting or knitting. And, it turns out that it's not a short cut for learning to knit or crochet. It's its own thing. Above all, it's a totally knittable crochet hook and a compact instrument that’s super handy for carrying around in a regular sized purse - a great plus for travelers on public transit and for long distance trips.

Leisure Arts invented it for the crocheter that wants to learn to knit. There's an instructional booklet on how to's for both right and left-handed knooker complete with photos, plus three bamboo knook hooks, each having a small hole on the far end of the hook. There are also 3 colored cords that are threaded through the hole. The cord is used as an extension thread, and rows are knooked right off the loops on the cord.

As to some of its advantages, well I've already mentioned its portability. Also, it’s inexpensive – about the same cost as about 3 regular wooden crochet hooks (and they can be used as traditional crochet hooks when you're not knooking). It's also a pretty nice tool for someone who learned to crochet and has been hesitant to handle two needle knitting or for a knitter who wants to knit part of an item and crochet some other part. Casting on is easy. More on that later. Beyond that, it's really hard to drop a stitch. The cord will save the stitches on the last correct row, and that can save a lot of time.

There are only a very few issues with the Knook. Some people are bothered by dealing with the cord. Another difficulty may be getting a consistent tension for knitting and purling. But, like most methods, it gets easier with practice. For the beginner, making square or rectangular items with just basic stitches shouldn’t pose any real problems. Leisure Arts has how-to videos and free patterns on the Internet. Right now, there aren’t many knooking books available so you’re limited to a small selection of patterns. But, read a few more reviews about the pros and cons and then decide if GETTING KNOOKED will be worth your time.

Getting started
Begin by threading the cord into the eye in the knook. Read through the instructions and check out a video. Choose a medium to bulky weight yarn. The cast on row is done by either traditional long tail knit method or the simple crochet chain method that the knook booklet illustrates. Then, you slip all of your loops onto the cord. To continue, you use the hook to pick up a new row of stitches, inserting the hook into the loops that are now held on the cord. Whether you make knit or purl stitches depends on which way you wrap the yarn around the hook.

The resulting fabric looks like knitting. All in all, it’s great for simple small projects like headbands, scarves, and dish rags. But it wouldn't be much use for sweaters or making socks and mittens. A really skilled knitter would probably be frustrated with the knook.

For me, there was a learning curve - but not such a steep one. Knitting with the knook isn't harder than crocheting and probably easier than knitting with needles. Better tension control and manual skills come with time and practice. After playing around with it for a couple of hours, I caught on to how to maintain tension control and was good to go. I GOT “KNOOKED” and you can, too. I am happy with my new tool and did a simple scarf to practice. I've included its pattern below.

A lacy knooked scarf
Here’s a simple pattern for a knooked scarf that uses only garter stitch and a variant that is knit 2 together (K2TOG), yarn over (YO) for a lacy look. Even as a total knooking novice, I was able to finish the scarf (5" X 50) in about six hours of TV watching - 3 sessions in two days.

Materials
Medium weight yarn - about 5 oz.
Knook, size – 5.5 mm, along with its cord
Yarn needle
Measuring tape
2nd knook or hook - ready to help if stitches slip off or need some other kind of correction.

Instructions
Chain and pick up 19 stitches for the cast on. (Note: Actually, I began with 19 stitches and medium weight yarn but saw that it was going too slow. So I switched to 15 stitches and bulky weight yarn - much easier for me as a novice with this technique.)
Row 1 Knit across
Rows 2-5: Knit all (garter stitch).
Row 6:  *K2TOG, YO* and repeat from * until there is 1 stitch left on the needle, then K1.
Row 7-9: Knit all (garter stitch)
Repeat Rows 6-9 until the scarf is almost the length that you want. End like the beginning with 5 garter stitch rows.

Bind off loosely and use a needle to weave end any tails.
As an option, add fringe to the scarf.

Related posts
Knit up some lacy curtain panels for a seasonal look that’s always in style
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
THE VERY PRACTICAL AND HARD TO FIND "DICKIE"
LOOM KNITTED CAPS FOR KIDS
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.
FAST KNIT THIS LONG BULKY SCARF WITHOUT CIRCULAR NEEDLES.
ROUND IN CIRCLES AGAIN: THE CROCHETED ROUND RUG REVISITED
CROCHET A ROUND RUG

 

ROUND IN CIRCLES AGAIN: THE CROCHETED ROUND RUG REVISITED

More than two years ago, I wrote a post on crocheting the round rug - also called the circle rug. That post was a celebration for  having finished my first round rug. (See related post below.) Having made what I thought was a good effort and spent time in what seemed to be endless hours of rounds of crocheted and pulled out stitches, my first rug was quite nice. Since then, somewhat embarrassed to say, I’ve not made any more rugs like that. There are some reasons for that. The first is the fact that I’m much more of a knitter than a crocheter. The second is the rather unfortunate conclusion that my stash of leftover yarn, none of which was wool rug yarn, produced an initially nice-looking rug but one that captured every speck of dirt and lint on the floor and didn’t wear well under foot steps either. I removed it from the floor and later repositioned it on the back of the bench that sits at my dining room table. It looks pretty there. On the other hand, there are two benches at my table, so one is cheerfully decorated with a rug and the other one isn’t.


A round rug will look good any where in your home.

It was the unadorned bench that inspired me to make another circle rug and it’s also the theme of this post. Having spent too much time stressing on knitting better mittens, I was in the mood to do a simple crochet project, so I decided to make a round rug out of a several hunks of leftover yarn. Basically, I didn't follow any written pattern, I just used my K hook, and half-double crocheted in rounds until I had a rug the same size as the other one that’s in our dining room. I’ve learned a few things about crochet over the past months and, happily, my experience with crocheting the current rug is different. So, I wanted to share some ideas that have come to me in the process of making my new rug.

These rustic-looking rugs hold some secrets
What goes around and around (like the rows of this kind of rug) comes around. That’s the story of the circle rug. Ever since the US colonies (and before no doubt), almost every home had one or more round or oval rugs, made from wool yarn or rags, depending on the financial situation of the household. I remember back in the fifties, that the round rug was a popular floor covering for what were the first family rooms – back then we called them “rec-rooms".

Since that time, the handmade round rug has dwindled in popularity and is more associated with grandmas than with the younger generations. Still sometimes they are found as an element of down-home style in a bedroom or sitting room. And there are still plenty of modern-type craftspeople that produce all kinds of crocheted rugs –both room-size, floor rugs and mini-rugs that serve as hot-mats and table covers. The mini-versions make well-appreciated gifts and sell well at craft fairs. Also, many of these round rugs are made from rags or repurposed/leftover yarn, and as such represent the true spirit of trash-to-treasure projects.

Beyond all that and on a more mystical note, it’s said that the old handmade circle rug was symbolic of a never-ending journey and, for the meditative types, the crocheting of each succesive row could be part of a prayer daisy chain (mandala-effect).

Why round rugs are, at first, bothersome to make
A lot of people think that crocheting rugs is a real chore that takes too many hours and calls for expert hooking skills. Well, yes, and no. There are a few common problems that are seen with these projects. First, be prepared to spend a lot of hours learning how to make even looking stitches. Second, sometimes, in the middle of making the rows (really concentric circles), a kind of ripple forms at the outer edges. If that happens, you've used too much yardage. You’ll need to unravel some rows until the rug lies flat and re-do the stitches. You can do one of two things to prevent this situation – usually after the first “disaster” - make fewer extra stitches as you increase or use a tighter tension in all the stitches. Third, if you see a sort of big bubble forming somewhere, then your outer rows have too little yardage. You’ll need to correct the problem by ripping out some rows and then using a looser tension or making additional stitches. All in all, you don’t have to see exact circles or absolute flatness as you crochet your rug. You can overcome minor variations from “perfection” by washing the finished item and letting it dry flat.

Having experience all of the above bothersome moments, I offer here a simple patterns and some hints about what I’ve learned while making two crocheted round rugs. Here's the pattern for this rug. You'll see that this one varies a bit from the one described in a previous post.

Pattern for a 39″ crocheted round rug
Materials
Size 10.5 or K crochet hook
About 8 large skeins of rug yarn or the equivalent in a variety of leftover, worsted weight yarns
Darning needle
Measuring tape (a gauge for width of concentric circles and to let you know when you've finished)
Scissors

Instructions
Use a double strand of yarn throughout. It’s easier if you take the trouble to wind both strands of yarn into balls. This helps in maintaining even tension in your stitches.

- To make the center ring, attach the strands of yarn to the hook with a slipstitch and chain five stitches. Join the chain to create a circle. Pull tight into something of a knot.

- For the second row, insert the hook into the stitches of the center ring instead of into the outer part of the stitches and single crochet.

- Make half double crochet stitches with a few increases at equal distance in successive rows and chain one stitch (upwards) to start new rows.

- Keep adding rows until your rug reaches 39 inches or the width you decide to make it.

- For the final row, single crochet all stitches for a tighter edge. When the last row is complete join the yarn to the first stitch in the next to last row with a slipstitch. Cut off about 5 inches of remaining yarn and fasten off by pulling the yarn through the last loops on the hook. Finish off the rug by pulling all loose threads toward the back. Use the darning needle to weave the ends into the stitches.

- You can stop there with what’s sure to be a nice-looking rug or adorn it more by adding a fringe made up of strands of all the colors in your rug or only with the color of the last rows. Or you can make a looped edge (single crochet paired with two chains) to finish off your rug.

Notes
If at the end you discover something of a loose hole in the exact middle of your rug, you can chain stitch an even smaller circle (with just a few stitches) and “plug up’ the hole by sewing the smaller one inside the larger.

When yarn rugs get dusty, just take them outside and beat them. When really dirty, small rugs can be cleaned in the washing machine on gentle cycle and line dried. Larger rugs should be sent to the dry cleaners.

I never use a stitch marker and continue row on row making my color changes visible. This gives the rug a bit of a spiral look instead of exact circles. I also don’t worry about differences in number of rows with each color since one of my goals is to use up my yarn stash. I like these little variations because they give the product a more ‘artistic” or folksy look. You can be careful with these details if you wish. If you do, your rug will look more “traditional” than mine.

Note:
While I said (above) that you would need only 2 strands of worsted weight, I might have been wrong. As I continued crocheting my rug, I found that some of the yarn that was supposed to be worsted weight was lighter than what I started with and ended up using 3 strands in order to make it match in thickness. So, if you're using different weight yarns, like I was, you'll probably need to make the same kind of adjustments.

Related posts
Crochet a round rug
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
EMBRACE A SIMPLE HOME
LEARN TO MAKE SMART, THRIFTY AND EVER SO USEFUL TIE QUILTS
CHECK OUT THIS QUILTED TABLE RUNNER IN BRIGHT SUMMER COLORS

FAST KNIT THIS LONG BULKY SCARF WITHOUT CIRCULAR NEEDLES.

Most people agree that circular needles make some kinds of knitting a lot easier and faster when compared to that done with traditional straight needles. The circular needles have a plastic cord that runs between the two needle tips. The cord attaching the needles is usually  16 inches to 29 inches long. The needle tips can be made of plastic, wood, bamboo, or metal, and most are about five inches long. They come in all regular needle sizes.

Circular needles are used much in the same way as straight needles for flat knitting. But circular knitting needles allow you to do knit projects in the round, otherwise known as tube knitting. That is something that, in the past, was done with three double-pointed needles. And, if you've ever tried them, you must know that the use of double pointed needles is a bit of a challenge. But the main advantage of circular needles is their length that lets them hold projects with a lot more stitches than straight needles can. These different lengths can accomodate a variety of larger projects like long scarves, shawls and afghans - sometimes calling for 100 or more stitches. Last, but not least, circular knitting needles are more compact than straight needles, and that makes them easier to store and carry around, including outside the home.

Knitters also use circular needles to save time by not having to turn the work, and that's how you can do a lot of quick projects.You may have read some fast knit patterns that call for circular needles. On the other hand, it's not always easy to find the circular needles in larger sizes. Or you may already have some straight needles and don't want to buy circular needles of the same size.

Luckily, not having circular needles doesn't have to be such a problem. Here's a trick that I've learned to use my long straight needles for some fast-knit projects. This method works best for long, rectangular projects like long scarves, shawls, and coverlets. (It wouldn't do so well for longer tube-type patterns because straight needle knitting would produce long rectangles. Those long pieces of knitting would then have to be seamed up, and that's another time consuming chore.)

Here's an adaptation of a two-hour scarf usually made on circular needles and knitted from side-to-side. That means that the cast on is for the length and not for the width. The faster knit comes from the fact that you only have to turn the work a few times instead of the many turns that are required for working end-to-end. The scarf described here is made by knitting the two halves separately and then seaming them together. The seam is located at what would be the back of the neck and is made with a simple crochet stitch. So, maybe, it requires three-hours, what with the added seaming and pretty edges with fringe or tassels.

Pattern for a "three-hour", bulky knit scarf

Materials

Size 19 straight needles.
Super bulky yarn or 3- 4 worsted-weight strands knitted together- can be different colors for a tweedy effect.
Large size crochet needle
Scissors

Instructions

Make two equal size balls of all your yarn. That way you'll always have enough for the second half.

Cast on 33 stitches.

Row 1- purl 3, garter stitch (all knit) 27, purl 3

Row 2 - all garter stitches

Continue knitting the same two rows until it has the width you are looking for. (I knitted Rows 1 and 2 - 4 times - and then repeated Row 1 to finish off.) Cast off very loosely. (If you don't do this, you'll have one entire, long side of your scarf loose bound and the other tight bound. And that doesn't make for a happy outcome.) Leave about 20 inches of yarn at the end as you cast off. That way you can make the seam with one less knot that needs to be hidden somewhere - a not so easy task, when you're working with bulky yarn or several yarn strands.

Then make the other half of the scarf in the same way. Join the two halves neatly with a crochet slip stitch. Make fringe or 2 tassels for the ends of the scarf in the same color (or colors of) yarn.

Scarf will be about 56 inches long - plus fringe, if you make it. (If you want a really long scarf, just make another panel and seam up all three end-to-end. And why not? Made with care, the seams are an attractive addition.)

You'll enjoy your warm bulky scarf all winter long. Or give it as a gift to someone. It will certainly be appreciated.

Related posts
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS
LOOM KNITTED CAPS FOR KIDS
BE REALLY “GREEN,” WEARING A BULKY SWEATER
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.

IT’S BABY BLANKET KNITTING TIME AGAIN

First of all, I must say that I really think twice (or even more times) about knitting or crocheting big items such as afghans, rugs, and baby blankets. You can guess why. Yes, they generally take several weeks to finish and use pounds of yarn. Nevertheless, from time to time, I convince myself that it’s time to do an enormous needlework project. And that time is here – again. Yes, in less than one month, I’ll be a grandmother for the third time. So, it’s baby blanket knitting time again, and I won’t back out on this project. I’ve knitted baby blankets for my two sons and for the first two grand daughters. And in keeping with that tradition, I’ve begun a blanket for this third grand child – one that I have to hurry up and complete before my daughter-in-law’s due date, less than a month away.

Actually, I began what I thought was a baby coverelt two weeks ago. I was loom knitting a large project with a lacy stitch, but it was taking much too long, and I probably wouldn’t have it put together before January. I need this one in December. It was nicely lacy but, as it turned out, it looked more like a summer weight knit, and I think I’ll leave it that way – as the beginning of a lovely spring-time shawl (to be continued in a few weeks or so after I finish the baby blanket).

Baby coverlet/floor mat/car seat blanket

 So, I’ve started out again to make the baby blanket, using this time large needles and an easy pattern - a tried and true way to knit something large quick. I’m using size 17 needles and four strands of yarn. That makes for a bulky coverlet that could also be used as a baby floor mat or cat seat blanket. Now, the baby covers that I’ve made, up to now, were basically done with one or two classic baby colors – yellow, white, pink, pale green, etc. This time I’ve decided to be more bold and make a distinctly modern looking baby blanket. That gives me the opportunity to use a lot of leftover yarn in a striped pattern with seven different colors – white, purple, orange, and two shades of blue, and two shades of yellow/gold.

I hope to finish this blanket in record time. I pulled together this collection of colors in comfy worsted-weight acrylic yarns. Of course, I had to guess whether or not I had enough of each color to make the stripes. I found four yarns made up balls of at least six inches in diameter for the bulk of the cover and two smaller balls for the shorter stripes. I’m using the simplest of designs – a seed stitch throughout and a simple one color crochet (probably medium blue – I haven’t gotten there yet) edge. The four main color yarns let me use up some hefty amount of the leftovers that I found in my closet stash. (I have three suitcases full of yarn - baby yarns, worsted weight yarns, and bulky yarns for loom projects. It’s my naughty little sin to have so many balls of yarn, but I can’t help it. I just love to collect so many different beautiful textures and colors. It makes me feel good, and I justify myself by thinking that I’ll always be ready for any spur of the moment knitting challenge.

All of us do well to schedule in some relaxation time each day, and for me that means having two or three hours to do something that I really enjoy, usually knitting or reading. The size of the coverlet that I’m making is about 30”x 36".  Now, my usual knitting time is about 3 hours per day – when I’m in the middle of a rush project. That’s one hour just as soon as I get out of bed (only after morning prayers and a 20 minute stretching routine), with two more hours of knitting in the evening while watching TV. Sometimes I fall asleep with my knitting and needles on top of me. I’m always trying to find more time to knit, and some days I miraculously find another hour somewhere. I judge I’ll need about 14 or more hours of knitting and another 4 or more hours of crochet for the edges and the tassels, totaling 7 to 10 partial days of work.

As we have talked about several times, needlework, in general, is an excellent hobby, and knitting baby things is something especially wonderful. I love knitting for the babies and small children of the family, and, naturally, I don’t flinch when its’ baby blanket knitting time. But I sometimes get a bit bored with knitting the same old patterns in what sometimes seems to be endless hours. So I'm always on the lookout for an interesting pattern. Also, I already knitted two standard sorts of blankets for the first two grandchildren, and I hope my daughter-I-law still has those and will be using them for the new baby. Well, the pattern that I’m knitting now is marvelously chunky and modern in its colors and design. Equally important, it knits up fast. I think you’ll like it.

Pattern for a super easy baby coverlet/floor mat/car seat blanket

Materials
4 big balls of worsted weight yarn (can be slightly different weights), 5-6 ounces each, and 2 smaller balls of about 3 ounces - all in different colors if you like.
Another big ball of yarn (in one of the colors) for crochet edging and tassels
Long knitting needles size 17
Yarn needle
Tape measure
Large size crochet hook
Cardboard for cutting the tassels
Scissors

Instructions
Use 3 or 4 strands of yarn throughout. With size 17 needles (6mm), there are three stitches to 2 inches. For example, this blanket is to be 30 inches wide, which calls for 45 stitches, cast on in the first row. You can change the width, if you like. Just be sure to end with an odd number of stitches. (See the picture of what I did if you decide to make the striped pattern and remember to always change colors on the right side of your work.)

Use the seed/moss stitch. It's made with just 2 stitches. For all rows, just knit 1, and then purl 1. Repeat across, with a knit stitch at the end. Continue knitting rows until the blanket measures 36" or whatever length you want.

Cast off stitches and weave in loose ends, using a yarn needle. Take the crochet hook and a double strand of one of the yarns and single crochet or simple shell stitch crochet around the blanket to finish off edges.

Add tassels to all four ends. To make the tassels, cut a piece of cardboard to measure five inches on one side. Wind yarn around it ten times. Cut strands on one side, producing double strands. Cut about 4" of yarn and slip it under the wrapped yarn, against the cardboard. Gather the wrapped yarn together on the cardboard and then bundle it together with the small piece of yarn tied into a loose bow. Untie the bow, and re-tie it in as tight a knit as you can. Use the crochet hook to pull the strands through, so that the strands on both "sides" are equal length. Take about 5” of yarn and make a tight tie just below the knot, to shape the tassel. Hide the ends of the tie inside the strands. Make tassels for all four ends.

Notes: I used four strands of yarn continually. The 4th strand was a lightweight sport yarn in yellow. This gave me a heavier weave, just right for a floor mat. Also, after working on the coverlet for a few hours, I tore out all the rows and began to use the double seed stitch (2 knit, 2 purl, * throughout). I found that the double seed stitch involves less hand movement, and I'm able to knit a lot faster. And, as I was knitting, it occurred to me to do 5 rows of garter stitch (all knit stitches) every time I changed colors and then continue on in double seed stitch. I think it adds a nice variation to the pattern.

Just finished. Yeah! It took me 10 days from start to finish. The end product was 28" X 34".  I guess I either knitted too tight or my stitch count was a bit off. The tassels I added were multi-color because I was running out of blue yarn. Most important, I'm happy with the results, and  I have no doubts that the baby will enjoy it. It's multicolored striped, tasseled, and very warm.

Related posts
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
LOOM KNITTED CAPS FOR KIDS
THE VERY PRACTICAL AND HARD TO FIND "DICKIE"
CROCHET A ROUND RUG
BE REALLY “GREEN,” WEARING A BULKY SWEATER
IN PRAISE OF THE SIMPLE DISHRAG.
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.