MY OFFICE SUPPLIES, SCRAPBOOK, MEMENTOS, AND GREETING CARD DRAWER SHRUNK TO SHOEBOX SIZE

As you have seen from earlier posts, I fully believe in peace and harmony in the home. That's why I've been busy these past months striving for minimalism in my home. Among my first projects were getting rid of extra furniture items, excess bed and towel linen, and deplasticizing my kitchen.  So, recently, I knew I would have to tackle the junk in my drawers. And, just  a few days ago,  lacking more pressing things to do, I decided to open up one of my drawers and organize it.  My goal was to do this in one afternoon. It was after lunch and I hadn't done much of anything on such a rainy Thursday.  I started by opening the lower drawer of the two-drawer file cabinet in my bedroom.

I have had to face a lot of challenges in my transitioning to a lighter lifestyle and I've found that tidying takes a lot longer than you would think. Can you imagine that, at first, I thought paring down a whole house would take only a few months?  But the year is almost over and the more I work at it, the more I find major loads of junk that don’t need to be around my home. Looking hard for some justification, I like to blame this slow progress on my husband, who isn’t totally on board for this adventure. But, then, again I, personally, have a lot that I still need to do - what with the cleanliness, the organization, and the day-to-day clutter that I also help create.

It's good to have organized file drawers.

But, I did something today – I worked on clearing out misplaced things in the bottom drawer of my file cabinet. What I found was a unsettling combination of craft and scrapbook materials, English as a Second Language lessons (now dusty from my teaching days), pens, sundry office supplies, assorted greeting cards, and other mementos that I had “filed away” for some later date when I could get to them. Oh, and also I found a few knitting and craft patterns that didn’t’ make their way to the four large scrapbooks that I've dedicated to dreaming about and documenting my handiwork projects.

What went and what stayed.

I saw some improvement as the afternoon progressed. I organized and got rid of almost all the things that don’t have any place in this drawer, including, of course, my husband's misplaced files. That was easy enough.

I also discovered what looked like 100 greeting cards for all occasions and blank notes. Not being much of a greeting card person, that supply could easily take me well into my next lifetime.  Obviously, most had to go. I chose to set aside all the specific greeting cards for give away and keep about thirty with nice designs and a white page inside. Those – in my own handwritten note - can be used for birthdays, anniversaries, get-well and even for condolences.  They should last me a while and when they run out, I plan to buy totally blank note cards and print up the fronts with my own colorful artwork.

Office supplies continue to make up most of the space in the drawer and that’s the way it should be. I tossed the extras. For example, I kept only one of the four big letter stencil sets and about a third of the pens that I had collected over the past couple of years. Dried up glue and no longer working scissors quickly found their way to the trash can.

My personal documents were transferred to the top file drawer that I, as yet, haven’t organized the way I want.  Now, the ESL file is up there, too.

Crafty pages have been reassigned to scrapbooks on a shelf.

Smallish sundry mementos and sewing materials have found their way to a few boxes in the closet where I usually stash them.

I have to admit that I still have a smallish stash of pens and other highly useful office accessories near my desk and consequently, outside the bottom drawer. But, given their utility – by proximity – for the time being, they'll have to stay where they are.

Oh, and did I really get everything down to the sought after shoebox full? Well, that was just me, daydreaming, again. In truth, I haven’t accomplished all that I set out to do -- yet. But I now have a large pile of throw-outs and destined-for-the-thrift-shop that accounts for about half the former contents of the drawer. So, I guess it will take another rainy day inspiration to finish the task. And just cheating a bit - I have a couple of over sized boot boxes, on reserve, that might fit the shrunken contents of my second file drawer - whenever I get back to work on it.

HOW I FINISHED A GRANNY SQUARE AFGHAN IN RECORD TIME AND COST

Last night, in the middle of the night, finding myself with some flu-like bug and a cough that just wouldn't quit, I decided to crochet my very first giant granny square afghan. My project kept me occupied for four hours, from 1 to 5 am, at which time I finished my afghan - about 50" X 50". Oh, and by the way, its total cost was two dollars.

Now all that probably doesn't seem very likely to you. And, of course, it's not. Not likely and not true. Except that it is, sort of.

Giant granny squares are useful and colorful items for the home.

Here's the story of this crocheted afghan.

I absolutely love to surround myself with colorful homespun items and always wanted to crochet a giant granny square afghan. I just never got around to it. And having crocheted some small granny squares as dishcloths, I was pretty sure I had the skills. But, sitting down so long to make an afghan was something that never happened - due to time constraints and general laziness to undertake such a big project that would take scads of yarn and way too many long hours. I always said that there would come a time when I would pull together some exquisite yarns and see the threads join into a beautiful granny square creation for my home. Last night I accomplished that goal.

But I didn't really crochet a whole afghan in one night. What I did was finish one - a nice one that I'm proud of.

This story began about two years ago when I was scouring the local thrift stores looking for used knitted and crocheted items. My purpose was to tear out and salvage the yarn for making scarves and shawls. I had found a number of sweaters that served well being torn out and, later, reused for other projects. I even blogged about the process. (See below.) One day, back then, I ran across a granny square afghan in a thrift shop - with nice purple and black yarn. It even looked in good condition and the cost was just two dollars. I was really pleased to buy it. Best of all, all that yarn was a medium weight acrylic that holds up well for any number of needlework projects.

Of course, it had a problem. That's why it was there, being sold for just a couple of dollars. The last row of crochet had come out and the loose yarn was hanging down - several yards worth. What's more, any movement of the blanket caused further unraveling. Apparently, no one had appreciated just how nice this afghan was and how many hours of work it represented. Being somewhat unraveled didn't seem to be a big problem for me since I, at first, wanted to unravel it, anyway. But, when I got it home, I realized that it was much too nice to destroy. So, I put it away on a top shelf to wait the time when I could repair it.

That time just didn't come around. I seemed to have dozens of projects that were more urgent than reworking an afghan.  But last night, the time was right. I realized that I was totally unlikely to sleep and I hate to spend my hours tossing around in bed unable to rest. That's when I remembered the afghan on the top shelf, a great project for a long night of insomnia.  The huge respiratory meltdown was the right moment for finishing the afghan.

I took the blanket off the closet shelf and carried it to the living room. There, after trying several hook sizes, I found one that seemed to be the same as the one used to make the square. Figuring out the pattern turned out to be very easy because granny squares just repeat the same stitches all through. It turned out to be a double crochet stitch and I settled down to work on the couch with a hot tea - actually, 4 hot teas during those four hours - along with two coverlets over my legs. It took less than an hour to redo the raveled out row.

While I was pleased to see the row now repaired, the blanket didn't seem to have much pizazz. The two colors were nice but it still appeared unfinished and a bit drab. Since I knew that I would have several more hours of wakefulness, I decided to go around the last row with a single crochet. I chose a medium blue acrylic from my yarn stash. That shade of blue gave it a bit more color but didn't cause so much contrast as to call undue attention to the finishing row.

I'm proud of my work. But, of course, it isn't the granny square afghan of my dreams. The one I was hoping to make would have been much more colorful - that according to my fantasy, at least. The truth is that I was really lucky to have found this afghan at a thrift store and to finally find the time to finish it. So, I'll say this one counts as my first giant granny square blanket, made in record time (overlooking the two years it sat shelved) and at a cost of 2 dollars.

To conclude this story and, according to my best hopes, hit the bed for a few hours of morning sleep, there are some points that I hope you've noticed here. First, there is a good possibility to find homespun items for very little money at garage sales and thrift stores. Most of them will need some work. Second, if you're willing to do a bit of repair, used needlework can be a useful and attractive addition to the home. Second, there are moments when a time slot - even a less than optimal one - will allow you to carry out a project. So, getting to work at those times is a real plus - in the great scheme of things.

I'm not going to give out the instructions for making this afghan. There are any numbers of Internet blogs and videos that do that ever so much better than I could. 

But, I do highly recommend the making of your own granny square afghan and/or the searching out for used blankets of this kind wherever they may appear.  They are really versatile as to color choices and they can be as large as you like. You just keep on crocheting until the size feels right. And they are so nice, thrown on the back of the couch or wrapped around you while reading a book or doing needlework or some other craft.  And you'll love to have your blanket, as mine is, folded at the end of the bed, offering extra warmth on these frosty winter evenings.

 

Related post

http://grandmasusansalmanac.blogspot.com/2011/07/unravel-old-sweaters-and-knit-new.html

One day later - update
Some people - like me - just don't know when to stop. Just decided to add a row of scalloping to the simple crochet edge. Well, my record time afghan may be taking a bit longer, after all. 

ONE-HOUR HOLIDAY TABLE RUNNER PROJECT

Handmade runners are a way to create an attractive holiday table without spending a lot. They can be made in many different color and design options, and you'll be delighted with the easy and gorgeous results. This project is based on purchased place mats sewn together with a bright colored yarn.

While the one I made was a simple, ribbed cotton weave with primarily a red color along and gold and orange threads. Yours can be whatever you like, such as bright, metallic holiday prints or other inventive designs. Obviously, the place mats for this project should be fairly light and flexible in order to drape nicely over the edges of the table.

Total time to make this really simple table runner should be only an hour or less.

You’ll need.

Three 14" X 19" place mats (Mat size can vary some. The runner will look great regardless of size.)

One ball of medium-weight cotton yarn (mine was a gold color with a metallic glitter)

Large metal tapestry needle.

Finished size: 14″ x 57″.

If you need more length for a long table, just add a fourth (or fifth) place mat. Fringe or tassles on the four corners can be added to the runner for an added decorative touch.

What to do.

Set the place mats out in a row to form a long rectangle.

Using the yarn and tapestry needle, unite the edges of three place mats creating a zigzag pattern.

Make a similar zigzag decoration on the ends of the runner.

Get moving on this project.
I enjoyed the creative process and how it turned out. Although I used  bright colors for a Christmas table decoration, you can use any fabric you want to make a runner for another season or occasion.


There it is! And it couldn't be simpler to make. You'll want to make a couple more to give as holiday gifts.

Note
Here is the simple holiday display that I put together for my table. (Every item was $1.50 or less (including each of three place mats. Paper ornaments were handmade from cut-outs of old Christmas cards with tiny bows attached.) Picture includes a glimpse of the runner that I made from ribbed cotton place mats.

THINGS TO DO WITH LEFTOVER CANDLE WAX

Earth-friendly folk, like most of us aspire to be, are always looking for recycling projects. We know that  there's a lot of waste in our homes and that, with a little imagination, we can find new uses for things that, previously, we threw out.

A tin can can be a candle holder.

So, here’s another reuse wonder – making useful things with leftover candle wax. If you burn candles frequently, like I do, you’ve seen how candlewicks tend to be used up first, leaving a lot of extra wax at the bottom. What 's left of the candle is not trash.  It’s a potential treasure.  So start collecting that extra wax that remains in the container. It can be easily made into several recyclable projects for your home. 

Recycled candles

Save extra candle wax, sorted by colors or by scents. Use these leftovers as candle supplies to make new candles. Make sure you have good, clean wax leftovers in a quantity that makes it worth your while. If you have too little wax in the container or if it has got too much soot and other ugly stuff, it’s best to toss it.

(I buy only white or cream colored candles with very little scent, that way I can use all my extra wax without bothering to sort it.)

- Heat the wax in a double boiler until it liquefies. Use a pan that will only be used for this purpose in the future (and never again for cooking). Having the wax over boiling water is a safety measure. Wax can change color and smoke at a temperature of about 250 degrees, and hotter than that and it can catch fire.

- Use your rinsed-out tin cans as the molds. The small vegetable cans are just the right size for votive candles. (Taller cans can be given a fancier look when holes are punctured around the top, according to some design.

- For the wicks, buy braided wick or pre-dip twine or heavy cotton string in the melted wax. Place your wicks on a flat surface so they remain straight.

- Make 2 small cardboard circles for each can, one slightly smaller than the bottom, and another a bit larger than the top; punch a hole in the middle of each circle. Grease the cans so that you can take out the bottom cardboard circles before burning the candles and, that way, the same cans are reusable over and over.

- Insert the wick in the bottom circle, with an inch or so below, and hold the wick up while you fill up the can with melted wax up to 1 or 2 inches from the top.

- Place the top circle on top of the melted wax with the wick pulled through the middle hole. Let the wick hang over the side of the can.

- The candle will set quickly in the air at room temperature or it can be placed in refrigerator to speed up the process.

- When the wax has set, trim the wick to a length of 3/4 inch, and your candle is ready for burning.


Wax ornaments

You can use leftover melted candles to make decorations that can be hung on a Christmas tree or elsewhere in the home.

Begin by melting the leftover wax. Add a candle scent if you like. Then, pour the wax into molds (the kind with both a top and a bottom). Before the wax hardens, cut off pieces of satin ribbon and attach loops in the tops of each ornament. When the wax is completely dry, pop the ornaments out of the molds. A set of these ornaments make nice gifts.

Great fire starters

Any leftover wax - even the sooty kind with ugly bits - is reusable for this project.

Take a large cardboard egg carton and place sawdust or tiny bits of newspaper in the egg part of the carton. Fill it up about halfway.

Pour melted wax over the sawdust or bits of newspaper to the top and allow to set.

Cut the carton into individual egg parts, and use one egg part at a time to start a fire.

Related posts

UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
REPURPOSE OLD & DAMAGED PLATES INTO DECORATIVE PLAQUES.
GREEN GARDENS: GOOD FOR FAMILIES AND FOR THE ENVIRONMENT
CHECK OUT THIS QUILTED TABLE RUNNER IN BRIGHT SUMMER COLORS
RECYCLE A PICTURE FRAME AS A BARNYARD-STYLE CALENDAR
RECYCLE PLASTIC BAGS INTO USEFUL ITEMS
MAKE BEAUTIFUL BEADS FROM RECYCLED PAPER.
GIVE AN OLD T-SHIRT A NEW LIFE AS A SHOPPING BAG.

MAKE A BEADED PAGE HOLDER FOR A FAVORITE BOOK

My last post was for a 3-strand, beaded necklace. I realize that, for some people, that kind of necklace may be a little complicated. So, if you’re still looking for a craft item that, with just a few skills, works up fast, then a beaded bookmark might be precisely what you want.
Your bookmark can be folk-inspired - like the beaded one described here - or made with a bit of glassy razzle-dazzle. Either way, it’s guaranteed to be a smart-look page holder and one that will add appeal to that book sitting on your bedside table. These markers are also quick gifts to put together and can be customized to include initials or themed charms for special occasions.

Everyone has the need for an extra bookmark. They also can be gift toppers on small or medium-size packages. Best of all, you can make your marker with whatever you have on hand in the way of scraps – any kind of bead and cloth, paper, ribbon, cord, etc. After you’ve planned your bead design, it should take you less than a half-hour to complete your work.

Things you'll need
Scissors
Heavy nylon cord (optionally, could be another material like a narrow ribbon or a cloth strip)
Beading needle (may not be necessary)
Wood or other beads that have an opening wide enough for threading
Metal or wood spacers, optional
Clear nail polish
Masking tape

Instructions
- Cut a 25-inch length of cord. Could be more or less length depending on the size of the book and the number of beads you want to add.
- Put nail polish on one end of the cord to allow for easier threading. Tape one end to a work desk using masking tape. Just beyond the taped down part, make a surgeons knot.
- Thread all the desired beads and spacers on the cord in the order that your design calls for.
- For one end, make simple, tight knots before and after all or most beads or spacers depending on the "look" you have in mind on one end.
- Leave enough cord in-between so that the bookmark ends will extend a bit beyond the cover of your book.
- Do the same knotting and placing of beads on the other end. Usually the two sides do not match, and one end has some larger, heavier beads. The fancier end will be the topside of the bookmark.
- When all the beads are placed, fasten the other end with a surgeon's knot.
-Trim away the excess cord on ends.
- Put nail polish on the end knots and final bit of cord so nothing comes loose or unravels.

All that done, and you're ready to admire your work. Just open your current book to the place you want to read the next time. The marker should be laid out close to the spine of the book. That way there's no damage to the book, and the beads are nicely displayed outside of the cover.

Related posts
DECORATE A T-SHIRT WITH CROCHET AND BEAD CHAINS
A FRAMED PICTURE COLLAGE MAKES AN EYE-CATCHING WALL DISPLAY
MAKE A FAMILY MEMORY BOX
A GIFT IDEA FOR A “CLOTHESLINE” WALL-HANGING MADE FOR A CHILD
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
MAKING HEART-SHAPED PILLOWS FOR LITTLE GIRLS
MAKE BEAUTIFUL BEADS FROM RECYCLED PAPER
CREATE A PERSONALIZED, EMBROIDERED PICTURE FOR A CHILD

DECORATE A T-SHIRT WITH CROCHET AND BEAD CHAINS

Even though I’m a dedicated minimalist when it comes to clothing, occasionally, I'm inspired to adorn things in my closet. Last weekend was one of those times. And, in a crafty binge, I decided to branch out from my usual (of-late) crochet bracelet-making to include a design for an embellished tee. I’d wanted such a tee for some time and spent a little time figuring out how to make one for myself. Here was my thought. I generally don’t like to wear necklaces – especially in this super hot weather. But now and again I want to wear a decorated tee-shirt with something distinctive on the front. And, in a moment of inspiration, I decided to hang strands of beads on two buttons attached to the front of the tee.

Armed with one of my favorite $5 tees, 2 buttons, some beads and heavy nylon thread from my bracelet craft stash, I crocheted three separate strands of beads, tied together in  single chain circle that allows the beads to dangle from the buttons on the either side of the neckline. So, now I have a fancy t-shirt to wear with my two gathered waist, mid-calf skirts. With this new creation, I'll feel comfortably cool but still dressed up enough to go out to a friend’s house in the evening or to a restaurant for dinner. And since the beads are easily detachable from the shirt, there will be no problem for regular machine washing.

All-in-all, the project was an easy one. It took just me a little patience to pull all three strands into one single chain “hook” just the right size. I’m pleased with the results of my efforts.

So, try this idea to spruce up an old tee and create a unique top for a special occasion. The bead chains bring color and texture to the front of the tee without going through the sewn beading process that takes a lot of planning, patience, and skill. Beyond that, if you don’t have the crochet skills to make this project, you might get something of the same effect by wiring together two or three separate chains with beads or links (that you already have) and hanging them off of sewn on buttons. Also, I’ve seen beads that were glued on a tee to form a design. So, that might be another way to get the look of chains without the work of either sewing or crocheting.

How to make the bead-chain for the tee
Materials

Two buttons. I decided on rather plain ½” wood buttons. Flatter, simple ones work better, and won't come off so easily with multiple washings.

Nylon crochet thread - whatever thickness and color(s) you like

Bunch of colorful beads. I used different colors and sizes for each chain.

#2.5 crochet hook (or size that better fits your thread)

Craft needle to thread the beads

Instructions
- Decide how long you want each chain. (Mine dangled a bit, so they were about 14, 16, and 18 inches long.) Multiple that length of each chain by 7 to be sure to have enough material to finish out your crochet. If you're doubling the thread, like I did, then you'll need about 14 times the length of each chain.

- Make your crochet chains, adding beads as you go. (I like to start by tying in the middle bead and crocheting out on both sides. That way, I can make adjustments as I go and end up precisely at the length I've chosen.)  If you’ve never crocheted with beads, there are several good Youtube instructionals for how to do this. That’s how I learned.

- Attach the last two links of each of the three strands of beads to a final short crochet chain. Knot the chain together to form a ring just big enough to go around the button. Do the same for the other side.

That done,  put on your tee, hang the beads off the buttons, and you’re ready to go out in a one-of-a-kind shirt. Also, this would make a nice gift tee for a friend. Or just make up a gift “kit” of buttons and bead chains, along with a sketch or photo of how to wear the chains. Your friend can put it on whatever shirt she chooses and do her own (minimal) handiwork.

Related posts
MAKE A BEADED BOOKMARK FOR A FAVORITE BOOK
A FRAMED PICTURE COLLAGE MAKES AN EYE-CATCHING WALL DISPLAY
MAKE A FAMILY MEMORY BOX
A GIFT IDEA FOR A “CLOTHESLINE” WALL-HANGING MADE FOR A CHILD
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
MAKING HEART-SHAPED PILLOWS FOR LITTLE GIRLS
MAKE BEAUTIFUL BEADS FROM RECYCLED PAPER
CREATE A PERSONALIZED, EMBROIDERED PICTURE FOR A CHILD

ROUND IN CIRCLES AGAIN: THE CROCHETED ROUND RUG REVISITED

More than two years ago, I wrote a post on crocheting the round rug - also called the circle rug. That post was a celebration for  having finished my first round rug. (See related post below.) Having made what I thought was a good effort and spent time in what seemed to be endless hours of rounds of crocheted and pulled out stitches, my first rug was quite nice. Since then, somewhat embarrassed to say, I’ve not made any more rugs like that. There are some reasons for that. The first is the fact that I’m much more of a knitter than a crocheter. The second is the rather unfortunate conclusion that my stash of leftover yarn, none of which was wool rug yarn, produced an initially nice-looking rug but one that captured every speck of dirt and lint on the floor and didn’t wear well under foot steps either. I removed it from the floor and later repositioned it on the back of the bench that sits at my dining room table. It looks pretty there. On the other hand, there are two benches at my table, so one is cheerfully decorated with a rug and the other one isn’t.


A round rug will look good any where in your home.

It was the unadorned bench that inspired me to make another circle rug and it’s also the theme of this post. Having spent too much time stressing on knitting better mittens, I was in the mood to do a simple crochet project, so I decided to make a round rug out of a several hunks of leftover yarn. Basically, I didn't follow any written pattern, I just used my K hook, and half-double crocheted in rounds until I had a rug the same size as the other one that’s in our dining room. I’ve learned a few things about crochet over the past months and, happily, my experience with crocheting the current rug is different. So, I wanted to share some ideas that have come to me in the process of making my new rug.

These rustic-looking rugs hold some secrets
What goes around and around (like the rows of this kind of rug) comes around. That’s the story of the circle rug. Ever since the US colonies (and before no doubt), almost every home had one or more round or oval rugs, made from wool yarn or rags, depending on the financial situation of the household. I remember back in the fifties, that the round rug was a popular floor covering for what were the first family rooms – back then we called them “rec-rooms".

Since that time, the handmade round rug has dwindled in popularity and is more associated with grandmas than with the younger generations. Still sometimes they are found as an element of down-home style in a bedroom or sitting room. And there are still plenty of modern-type craftspeople that produce all kinds of crocheted rugs –both room-size, floor rugs and mini-rugs that serve as hot-mats and table covers. The mini-versions make well-appreciated gifts and sell well at craft fairs. Also, many of these round rugs are made from rags or repurposed/leftover yarn, and as such represent the true spirit of trash-to-treasure projects.

Beyond all that and on a more mystical note, it’s said that the old handmade circle rug was symbolic of a never-ending journey and, for the meditative types, the crocheting of each succesive row could be part of a prayer daisy chain (mandala-effect).

Why round rugs are, at first, bothersome to make
A lot of people think that crocheting rugs is a real chore that takes too many hours and calls for expert hooking skills. Well, yes, and no. There are a few common problems that are seen with these projects. First, be prepared to spend a lot of hours learning how to make even looking stitches. Second, sometimes, in the middle of making the rows (really concentric circles), a kind of ripple forms at the outer edges. If that happens, you've used too much yardage. You’ll need to unravel some rows until the rug lies flat and re-do the stitches. You can do one of two things to prevent this situation – usually after the first “disaster” - make fewer extra stitches as you increase or use a tighter tension in all the stitches. Third, if you see a sort of big bubble forming somewhere, then your outer rows have too little yardage. You’ll need to correct the problem by ripping out some rows and then using a looser tension or making additional stitches. All in all, you don’t have to see exact circles or absolute flatness as you crochet your rug. You can overcome minor variations from “perfection” by washing the finished item and letting it dry flat.

Having experience all of the above bothersome moments, I offer here a simple patterns and some hints about what I’ve learned while making two crocheted round rugs. Here's the pattern for this rug. You'll see that this one varies a bit from the one described in a previous post.

Pattern for a 39″ crocheted round rug
Materials
Size 10.5 or K crochet hook
About 8 large skeins of rug yarn or the equivalent in a variety of leftover, worsted weight yarns
Darning needle
Measuring tape (a gauge for width of concentric circles and to let you know when you've finished)
Scissors

Instructions
Use a double strand of yarn throughout. It’s easier if you take the trouble to wind both strands of yarn into balls. This helps in maintaining even tension in your stitches.

- To make the center ring, attach the strands of yarn to the hook with a slipstitch and chain five stitches. Join the chain to create a circle. Pull tight into something of a knot.

- For the second row, insert the hook into the stitches of the center ring instead of into the outer part of the stitches and single crochet.

- Make half double crochet stitches with a few increases at equal distance in successive rows and chain one stitch (upwards) to start new rows.

- Keep adding rows until your rug reaches 39 inches or the width you decide to make it.

- For the final row, single crochet all stitches for a tighter edge. When the last row is complete join the yarn to the first stitch in the next to last row with a slipstitch. Cut off about 5 inches of remaining yarn and fasten off by pulling the yarn through the last loops on the hook. Finish off the rug by pulling all loose threads toward the back. Use the darning needle to weave the ends into the stitches.

- You can stop there with what’s sure to be a nice-looking rug or adorn it more by adding a fringe made up of strands of all the colors in your rug or only with the color of the last rows. Or you can make a looped edge (single crochet paired with two chains) to finish off your rug.

Notes
If at the end you discover something of a loose hole in the exact middle of your rug, you can chain stitch an even smaller circle (with just a few stitches) and “plug up’ the hole by sewing the smaller one inside the larger.

When yarn rugs get dusty, just take them outside and beat them. When really dirty, small rugs can be cleaned in the washing machine on gentle cycle and line dried. Larger rugs should be sent to the dry cleaners.

I never use a stitch marker and continue row on row making my color changes visible. This gives the rug a bit of a spiral look instead of exact circles. I also don’t worry about differences in number of rows with each color since one of my goals is to use up my yarn stash. I like these little variations because they give the product a more ‘artistic” or folksy look. You can be careful with these details if you wish. If you do, your rug will look more “traditional” than mine.

Note:
While I said (above) that you would need only 2 strands of worsted weight, I might have been wrong. As I continued crocheting my rug, I found that some of the yarn that was supposed to be worsted weight was lighter than what I started with and ended up using 3 strands in order to make it match in thickness. So, if you're using different weight yarns, like I was, you'll probably need to make the same kind of adjustments.

Related posts
Crochet a round rug
UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS.
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
EMBRACE A SIMPLE HOME
LEARN TO MAKE SMART, THRIFTY AND EVER SO USEFUL TIE QUILTS
CHECK OUT THIS QUILTED TABLE RUNNER IN BRIGHT SUMMER COLORS

REPURPOSE OLD & DAMAGED PLATES INTO DECORATIVE PLAQUES.

Of the three GREEN-Rs — REDUCE, REPURPOSE, AND RECYCLE, repurposing is more fun and brings the most satisfaction. And in my opinion, it’s also the greenest of the greens – because it requiresonly a tiny bit of energy for its reprocessing and eliminates the need to buy a new product. When an item can’t really be remodeled in any way so that it can be used for its original purpose, you can sometimes use your design skills to adapt it to another need. Thus the same product can serve us for more years in different uses or serve other people a long time before becoming recycled or - please not this- be tossed as another piece of trash into our already bulging landfills.

So what’s behind the repurposing fever? First, our society is running short of many costly resources and, second, the huge volume of products being disposed of everyday is no longer sustainable. And that’s exactly where design come in – finding new solutions by transforming an original item into something else, thus extending the products’ longevity. That’s the heart of the trash-to-treasure movement. You have an everyday item that no longer is useful in its first form, but with creativity and a bit of work, you find an attractive reuse that can be useful in your home or given as a gift to someone else.

When you transform an item into something with a new purpose, you reduce the environmental impact of the product’s industrial cost and postpone its moment of disposal as trash. This allows the “repurposer” to have the satisfaction of taking no longer used items and  thrift store-finds and transforming them into original artworks packed with both futurist vision and sentimental value.

That’s the trash-to-treasure principle that GrandmaS so happily spends time thinking about and, after some trial and error, shares with her readers. So, here goes one such project. Everybody has or comes across a beautiful plate that has a great color and design but now has a fairly visible chip or crack. Those plates don’t have to be thrown away and can easily be repurposed as decorative plaques.

How to convert an old plate into a decorative plaque.

Materials
A chipped or cracked plate with a charming design
Small mosaic tiles that coordinate (or contrast) with the colors in the plate
Tile nippers
A board cut to size as a plaque (with a cut-to-size circle if an entire plate is to be displayed.)
Mosaic tile adhesive
Premixed grout
Grout trowel
Tile and grout sealer
Safety goggles
Hammer
Work gloves

Instructions
You have choices. You can fix up the crack or chip with a bit of ceramic glue and/or acrylic paint color and keep the entire plate with a mosaic tile background. Or you can break the plate into smaller pieces with a hammer and not have to worry about any chips or cracks. The pieces don’t have to be all the same size, just be sure that most are about one-inch square or larger. (It's also possible to display the whole plate, as is, and not worry about trying to fix up small cracks or chips - giving your product more of a "shabby-chic" look.)

Be sure to protect yourself when you break the plate. Wear safety goggles or place some heavy fabric on the top before hammering. Also it’s a good idea to use some gloves when handling the sharp pieces of plate and for tile cutting.

Then take your plate or plate pieces and move them to the precut board. Create the design you like with plate pieces and tiles without applying glue. You will probably have to do some tile nipping to get the right fit. The plate or plate pieces will typically be in the middle with tiles around it, but you could also make a spiral, triangle, or some other geometric pattern. Use a notched trowel to apply tile adhesive to the board and rough up the adhesive with the trowel. This will help the pieces bond to the board.

Carefully set, not slide, the broken pieces and tiles into the adhesive using a slight twisting motion. Let the plaque dry according to the adhesive instructions.

After the adhesive has dried, fill the gaps between the broken pieces with grout. Remove excess grout with a damp sponge. Let the grout dry, then wipe off the surface again with the sponge. Make sure that the plaque is clean and dry, then apply the sealer.

Display your creation on a shelf or hang it on the wall. You’ll want to make more than one. These plaques make lovely holiday gifts.

Related posts
A FRAMED PICTURE COLLAGE MAKES AN EYE-CATCHING WALL DISPLAY
LIVING IT UP WITH LESS: DECORATION IN A SIMPLE HOME
A GIFT IDEA FOR A “CLOTHESLINE” WALL-HANGING MADE FOR A CHILD
CREATE A PERSONALIZED, EMBROIDERED PICTURE FOR A CHILD
FENG SHUI CAN HELP ENERGIZE YOUR FRONT DOOR AND ENTRYWAY
RECYCLE A PICTURE FRAME AS A BARNYARD-STYLE CALENDAR
MAKE YOUR OWN JAPANESE CURTAIN
MAKE A FAMILY MEMORY BOX
DOING HANDICRAFTS IS USEFUL AND FUN
MAKING HEART-SHAPED PILLOWS FOR LITTLE GIRLS

HERE’S TO YOUR GOOD HEALTH IN 2012 & BEYOND!

Well, as we all know, 2012 is just around the corner. So, whether you’re looking forward to it or have been frightened by vague rumblings about great changes - and maybe disasters, our next year on this planet is going to be 2012. So, whatever it may bring - for better or worse - it’s good to get ready. We can do this best by being healthy and helping others to stay well, too. And that advice is good for any year to come. Here’s my short list of things for you to think about as you prepare to stay well in 2012. All these activities are Earth-friendly and none rely on any sort of consumerism. The goal is for you and yours to be as healthy and useful to others as possible without putting any extra burden on our planet's resources.

Prayers and meditation do a body good
Whether our problems in 2012 are already well known or new to us, we need to be ready to deal with whatever comes. To do that, stress reduction techniques are essential. People who regularly meditate and pray have a brighter outlook and can better face stressful situations. So, plan for meditation and/or prayer to be a part of your daily life. Whether it’s meditation, prayer, reading the Bible, or reading some other inspirational book, just taking a few minutes of your day can clear your mind of a lot of external things. This, in turn, allows us to open our minds and trust in higher powers to bring us peace and guidance. Try to set aside some 15 minutes a day to get quiet, clear your mind of day-to-day worries, and ask for the help that you’re needing to overcome stress and lead a better life. Beyond that, be grateful for all the blessings received. Feel thankful for every single day. This feeling of gratitude benefits our health, increases our sense of connectedness and gives us the psychic energy we need to be friendly and kind to others.

A healthier diet will make a difference
Eating healthy means reducing the proportion of dietary sugar, fats, and meat and eating more fruits and vegetables, topped off with lots of water. You probably already know that eating plenty of produce - especially green vegetables, fruit, nuts, and beans - every day gives the body those necessary anti-oxidants to fight off disease and stop premature aging. Fresh produce also provides the fiber needed to regulate cholesterol and maintain proper bowel function. So, emphasize fruits and vegetables in your meals and snacks, and eat some green leafy vegetables every day.

Water is fundamental to all life, and our bodies are made up of 60% water. People who drink more water during the day report fewer physical complaints and higher energy levels than others who say they drink less water (and usually more coffee and soft drinks). So, aim for drinking at least eight, 8oz. glasses of water a day, and, for health and lower energy use, no plastic bottles, please. Take plenty of filtered water with you in a stainless steel reusable bottle whenever you go out.

Get a move on early and late
A major part of staying healthy comes from daily exercise. Do stretching exercises for at least 20 minutes in the a.m. and take a half hour walk at midday or late afternoon.  Exercising right when you get up is ideal. Set the alarm and get up 30 minutes earlier and start a stretching routine. Stretching helps you maintain strong joints and keep a good posture. Whether it’s yoga, gi gong, or old-fashioned calisthenics, get a move on in the morning and feel better all day.

It's particularly good for you to exercise outdoors. By spending just a fraction of your time outside – walking, jogging, bicycling, etc., especially during the daytime hours, you promote both mental and physical health. So, grab your reusable water bottle and head outside to stay fit among the marvels of nature. Sunlight affects moods positively and stimulates the body produce melatonin, a substance that boost the immune system and helps achieve proper restful sleep.

Make a green-action plan
Take this opportunity to talk to your close family and friends about what you'll be doing next year to reduce your impact/carbon footprint on the Earth. Make a list of things that you could do. Categorize these activities in three columns - Reduce, Reuse and Recycle, and then, try to think of ways to add them to your lifestyle.

Your goal for next year should be to cut back both your overall energy use and your trash production by 50%. There are all kinds of library reading materials and Internet blogs that can show you how to save energy, reduce your trash output, and salt away a little money in the process.

Stay connected with others in important ways
As humans, we form families, raise our children, and identify ourselves as part of circles of friends, neighbors, religions, clubs and other groups. Connecting with other people and forming close bonds of trust nourish both our emotional and physical health. In the past several decades, many people have become increasingly cut off from others, leading them to feel depressed and isolated. While the Internet helps in some ways to connect people, it just isn’t enough. What really matters for mental health are opportunities for positive, day-to-day interactions with all the physical components of voice, touch, and face-to-face communication.

That brings me to a more specific recommendation for 2012. It’s my opinion that you would do well to learn an art or craft that you can perform on behalf of others. I’m talking about a service that you can do to benefit other people without the use of specialized equipment or dependence on outside energy sources. Call them domestic arts or survival skills or whatever, it’s important to know such things. For example: how to do simple carpentry without power tools, cut hair with only scissors and an ol’time straight razor, cook from scratch over a wood fire, cultivate a small garden, make or remake clothes from what’s on hand, etc. And, of course, I don’t mean that you should necessarily learn a whole set of skills; the point is that real connection among people involves constructive help, and helping means a lot more when it’s person-to-person, without the need for modern technological interventions. Now’s a good time to choose a skill that you like, study how to do it better, and put your talent to practice by helping others.

Related posts
HOW CONSUMERISM (STILL) TRIES TO FOOL US
GREEN GARDENS: GOOD FOR FAMILIES AND FOR THE ENVIRONMENT
STAY HEALTHY GETTING MORE AIR AND LIGHT
LEARN HOW TO BE HEALTHY THE "NATURAL WAY"
Use less energy at home
TWO-WHEEL OUT YOUR DOOR AND ENJOY THE RIDE.
"HELLO, HELLO. ARE YOU THERE?"
REDUCE YOUR CARBON-FOOTPRINT
STAY IN THE NOW
REDEFINE YOUR PRIORITIES, REMAKE YOUR LIFE
MAKE HEALTHIER EATING YOUR NEW YEAR'S RESOLUTION

UNRAVEL OLD SWEATERS AND KNIT NEW THINGS

If you’ve been to the fabric or craft stores lately, you know that good yarn is not cheap. A hundred yards of fine yarn may cost as much as 7 or 8 dollars. That's one hour or more of the official hourly minimum wage. So, even home production using store-bought yarn doesn't really qualify as an inexpensive craft. Nevertheless, most of us would rather have hand knitted garments and home accessories than manufactured ones. And while there may be fewer items in our closets, handmade items can be real treasures to keep for many years. So, it’s smart to save money and unravel the yarn from old knits to create new things.

Well, you may be asking yourself: “Just who wants to sit down and tear out old sweaters, afghans, etc for the yarn?” Well, Grandma Susan often recycles yarn by tearing out knitted items, and a lot of other people do, too. Yes, it often takes two, three or more hours of work, depending on the kind of knits you're taking apart. So, why even do it?  The answer:  it’s cheap yarn - free if it’s from your own sweater or one given to you or at a cost of only $1-3 at a thrift store. Besides, sometimes it turns out to be more interesting yarn than what we find at the regular fabric and craft stores.  It also points to a philosophical position. Why spend money to obtain what is already available to us at a fraction of the price and at a no-carbon cost to the planet?

Fifty years ago, a lot of women made their own clothes. It was considered a virtue. Why was that? We made our clothing because wages were low and US manufactured goods were expensive, relative to our income. At that time, imported goods were almost prohibitively expensive. Even for those of us who weren’t so handy with a sewing machine, there was almost always a good seamstress in the neighborhood who made us things at a reasonable price. So, what happened? In the 80’s and 90’s a lot of cheap imports began to flood our stores with clothing. R Reagan told us we were going global. We weren’t too sure what that meant, but among our many surprises, it meant that cheap imports would take away almost all our motivation to produce things for our homes, our families and ourselves.

Over time, we came to know more about globalization as we discovered and devoured cheap things from abroad. Unfortunately, in a few decades, that same process led to the closing of much manufacturing in the US. We were told that was also something good. US people were not meant to work in fields and sweat shops, like those poor people in other countries. Instead almost all US people could aspire to office and service jobs. So, every young person should gear up to get the new skilled jobs by going to college or technical schools. Education was to be the key to mobility in the new global order.

But then came the global recession, and now there aren’t very many skilled jobs to be found. Worse still, a good fraction of the population faces unemployment and underemployment. And the few jobs that replace those we lost aren’t paying much more than minimum wage. We are also being made aware that what was cheap overseas labor is getting more expensive. Apparently, those people, too, are hoping (some are fighting) for better wages. Also, the cheap oil that carried imported goods thousands of miles to our stores is getting costlier by the month.

So, once again, the cost of manufactured goods may end up being expensive relative to the average income. And what goes around comes around. We may again be producing food and goods in our homes and locally.  And people who have the time can use it to create worthwhile things. That’s the case in point, and many of us are pleased to produce a part of what we need for our families and ourselves.

My inspiration
Just a month ago, I visited an old friend who is a fine jewelry maker who combines natural and recycled elements in her creations. She told me about how she sells her jewelry in craft fairs all over the South West, and how she'd like to have some hand knit scarves to “show-off” her jewelry at the booths. She believed that a collection of colorful scarves would attract more customers to her booth. Also, she had had some losses from theft in past events and felt that the pieces would be more secure if they were firmly attached to knitted items. Knowing that I’m a knitter, she asked me to make her some scarves. I told her that I would.

And this past month, I sat down and knitted two scarves from yarn that I had on hand from previous projects. Later she told me about a really big craft fair coming up in the fall that features beautiful things made from recycled materials. So, that, too, became part of my challenge. I decide to make some scarves from recycled sweaters that I found at the thrift store. I’ve already unraveled one such sweater and knitted the first scarf. Now, I’m currently unraveling the second sweater and ready to work on the second one. And this is the inspiration for this post - making new things from unraveled sweaters.

Instructions for recycling yarn from old sweaters.
The process is relatively simple, although it will take some time. Be prepared to spend all of one morning or afternoon just unraveling and making yarn balls. The important thing is to choose the items that you wish to tear apart with care. Look for old sweaters that are in good shape and are made from fairly thick yarn. If the yarn is too thin, you'll need to knit together three or more strands at a time. That's not such a simple task. Also, you’ll be much better off, choosing a sweater sewn by hand, not by machine. Look at the inside seams of the sweater. If the seams are made with visible stitches using yarn, it’s got to be a hand-sewn garment. Hand seamed garments unravel in long, continuous pieces, and that  makes them fairly easy to take apart. You’ll lose a lot of time with a machine-sewn sweater making a lot of cuts, row by row and end up with many tie-ends. To make a nice garment, you need long strands of usable yarn not a series of tie-ends.

So, after you’ve located a great - preferably hand-sewn - sweater, get ready to unravel.

1. Locate the seams. Start with the collar. You can usually see the threads on the collar quite well. On one side of the collar seam, you’ll find a thread line. When you look closely, you’ll see that the threads form little V's along the seam. You have to cut and/or pull out the threads on the side opposite the V's to separate the pieces.  If you don't locate any  V's or can't pull out the seams in one piece, procede by cutting the seam threads as carefully as you can - just a fraction of an inch at a time - so as not to break the yarn in the sweater pieces. Use fingers, pointy scissors and a seam ripper as needed. You’ll also have need of a good light. The unraveling process is tiring on the eyes (and really quite boring), so if you become jittery, take a break. Continue finding seams and separating the pieces.

2. After the pieces are sorted out, you're ready to start the unraveling process. Most sweaters are knitted from the bottom up so you will need to start unraveling at the shoulders/neck and work your way down. You’ll probably want to cut off and throw away a few rows that are incomplete or hard to deal with at the tops of the sleeves and at the shoulders and neckline. If the collar is just a few rows long, it may also be a throwaway while the yarn from a larger collar may be usable. Examine each piece and try to find where the piece was finished. This is the starting point for unraveling. Be sure to ball up the yarn as you unravel.

3. The yarn will be kinky, but the process of balling up and reknitting should help straighten out the yarn. If you're still worried about the waviness of the yarn, you can stretch it out, soak it in warm water and set it out in an airy place to dry. You'll also need to ball it up again.

Notes
After writing this post, I remembered some important details about unraveling sweaters.  First, for hygiene sake, it's always best to wash any old knitted item in warm water and detergent before handling it. That way you can be fairly sure to have eliminated any harmful bacteria. Second, seam ripping and unraveling will produce a lot of fabric lint. Be prepared for the lint by doing the unraveling outside, on a porch, or in any room other than where you sleep. If you are in a closed room, you may need to wear a dust mask and be ready to sweep up and dust surfaces one or more times.


Related posts
GIVE AN OLD T-SHIRT A NEW LIFE AS A SHOPPING BAG
KNIT A TRIANGULAR PRAYER SHAWL
BE REALLY “GREEN,” WEARING A BULKY SWEATER
A LOT CAN BE SAID ABOUT A GOOD SCARF.

CHECK OUT THIS PATTERN FOR A QUILTED TABLE RUNNER IN BRIGHT SUMMER COLORS

Summer is definitely here, and warm weather makes us want to lighten up our mood and decorate our homes with bright summer colors. While not all of us have a budget for repainting or buying new furnishings, we still have the option of using colorful pillow covers, tablecloths, curtains, and bedspreads to spruce up our homes.  And we have the option to make or repurpose what we already have instead of buying commercial home decoration items.

So, an easy-to-make, quilted table runner – a bit of summer grandeur - might be the perfect project for you. The quilting is a little bit thicker than your regular tablecloth, and this adds extra color and dimension to your dining space. An attractive runner looks good on top of any solid color tablecloth you already have. And if your table has a nice top, you can use the runner with place mats and no tablecloth at all - very much in keeping with hot-weather informality.

You can make your table runner with whatever fabrics you like, but stick to deeper shades of summer colors and small print designs. These will hide minor food stains better.  I also recommend that you use a larger quilt pattern rather than sewing a lot of small pieces together. The decorative effect is about the same, and the time necessary to complete the project is much less. Also your quilt patterns should only involve straight seams - easier to work with and hold up better through frequent washings.  With only basic sewing skills, you can make a simple quilted tablecloth to dress up your summertime table for informal family meals and social get-togethers. Best of all, this kind of project can be completed in just a few hours. That's the inspiration for another one of GrandmaS' trash-to-treasure projects:  a quick-to-make table runner with the punch of vibrant summer colors.

Pattern for a quilted table runner
A table runner is a strip of fabric from 12" to 18" wide that runs down the center of the table. The quilt pattern that you choose should include enough blocks to cover the length of the table and just hang down from 6" - 8" at the sides. Longer runners will require more material and probably won't add much to the decorative effect, anyway. Of course, the drop portion can vary according to your taste, and whatever length you choose will still look attractive. You've probably noticed that many table runners are reversible and can be used on either side.

This pattern is for a one-sided table runner. The bright colors and pattern are on the front. I chose five summer colors for the runner - sunshine yellow, bright pink, coral, lime green, and a jewel-tone blue. I 'm sure you'll agree with me that these colors shout out *SUMMER* and really look great together. The backing is made from an old cotton mattress cover cut to size. If you don't have an old one, they can usually be found at thrift stores for just a dollar or two. Old faded quilts with a hole or two in them can also be used - just use the better parts. So, the back is only utilitarian and won't be seen at all once the runner is placed on the table. The fabric for the quilt pieces should be all cotton because it washes better and doesn't tear up despite years of use. You can also use recycled cotton fabric from old dresses and shirts, if you can find them in colors and patterns you like.

Materials
- Cotton fabrics for quilt pieces, in at least four bright colors – solids or with a small print
- Backing fabric, in this case a cut-to-size piece of a mattress pad or old faded quilt. (Mark and cut the backing a tiny bit larger than your runner size.) If the pad isn't long enough, just sew two sections together. If you want to have some color on the back of your runner, you can dye the pad piece before starting the quilting project.
- Hand sewing needles or a sewing machine
- Ruler
- Marking pen
- Coordinating thread
- 1/2” double-fold bias tape in a contrasting color (Iron-on tape is a little more expensive but makes any binding job a lot easier.)
- Straight pins and large safety pins

Make the runner front
My runner was 12” wide and 72” long plus two 8” long triangles that hang over the edge of my table. All the fabric pieces have a tiny pattern in coordinating color.  The inner pieces are two squares and eight right triangles. The ends of the runner are isosceles triangles as wide as the width of the runner. Each square is 12’ X 12”,  and the right triangles have a 12” base. If your table is a different length, you’ll have to add or subtract squares or adjust their size.   I suggest that you cut out lightweight cardboard shapes to size and use them as patterns. That way you’ll be sure that your fabric is cut out correctly. Sew all the pieces of your runner together according to your pattern.  Pin pieces right sides together on one long edge and sew with a straight seam and a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Be sure to knot or backstitch at the begining and end of every seam. When the entire front is sewn together, iron open the seams.

Quilt the runner front to the pad
Lay the mattress pad on a flat surface. It can be a table or a clean floor. Put the runner front right side up on top of the pad. Trim up the excess pad so it is the same size as the front. Start straightening and pinning with safety pins – at least five pins per square, 4 pins per triangle (sides and center), beginning at the upper left corner of the runner. Continue until all the quilted pieces are pinned. Sew each quilt piece to the pad, following the seam lines and quilt about 1/4" inside the seams. The two squares will need an extra line of quilting along the diagonal. This time begin quilting in the center and continue outward, square by square to the ends. Don't sew the outline seams of the quilt pieces at the edges of the runner. This is done altogether in one long sewing line around the runner. Remove pins as you sew.

To apply the binding, start on the lower right-hand side of the runner and place one side on the back of the runner, making sure the fold of the tape is even with the edges. Pin in place. Fold the tape carefully at each corner and continue until all of the runner back has bias tape pinned to it. Iron in place. If tape is holding well, you can remove the pins. If you're not using iron-on tape or if it's not holding securely after ironing, you'll need to baste the tape in place before removing the pins. Fold the binding over onto the front of the runner and pin into place. Make sure that the corners fold neatly. Iron first and remove pins. Again basting may be necessary. Finally, sew the binding through all layers with a straight stitch and a 1/4" seam allowance. You’ll need to wash, dry and iron the runner.

Don’t wait for an “occasion". Use the quilted runner right away and celebrate your new creation with a center vase of summer flowers. Your table is sure to get lots of compliments.

Related posts
IN PRAISE OF THE SIMPLE DISHRAG.
CELEBRATE FALL WITH A LEAF-STENCILED TABLECLOTH
ANOTHER DISHRAG-MAKING PROJECT
EMBRACE A SIMPLE HOME
LIVING IT UP WITH LESS: DECORATION IN A SIMPLE HOME
CROCHET A ROUND RUG
HANDICRAFT SKILLS - AN INTRODUCTION.
COLOR THERAPY CAN HELP YOU REJECT CONSUMERISM
MAKE YOUR OWN JAPANESE CURTAIN
A REMAKE OF SOME TIRED PILLOW SHAMS

ANOTHER DISHRAG-MAKING PROJECT

As GrandmaS likes to remind you: "Every penny saved is a penny that's (at least, theoretically) not spent feeding the consumerist monster!" And having seen that the knitted dishrag post was one of my readers' favorites, I decided to find another dishcloth project that's easy to do and equally planet-friendly. So, here's a second dishrag-making project that can save you a pound of pennies and give you a ton of satisfaction.

Now, for those of you who read the first dishrag project, I want you to know that I personally did make and absolutely love my knitted dishrags. But, somewhat shamed-faced, I have to confess that I never produced the number that I recommended - that was 2 per day, dishrags and counter-cleaning rags, for a total of 14 for an entire week. I guess I got a little lazy after I 'd made a few.

But, later, I remembered that, for many years, I’d made my own facecloths from squares of recycled terrycloth with the addition of a crocheted edge. So, I thought: "Why not whip up some of those as dishrags?" And, since dishcloths are often - intentionally or otherwise - on display in the kitchen, I wanted to make them not only economical and useful but also attractive. These terry cloths are cheap and easy to make (see instructions below), and you'll be pleased that your kitchen has a safe, natural way of dish washing and surface cleaning.


There's more! These terry dishrags can be dyed beautiful pastel colors. Now, of course, GrandmaS would want you to go the natural route and not get involved with chemical dyes and their toxicity issues. That's right, natural dyes are easy to make and work with. (If you're still doubting, a quick Internet search can confirm this claim.) 

I think you'll like this simple project. And, if you get really inspired, you can do even more by making yourself some matching kitchen towels. A dyed terry dishrag and a matching  kitchen towel is a gift item that will be greatly appreciated by family and friends.

Instructions for making natural-dyed terry dishrags

Step 1 – Cut terry squares
Cut up white or almost white used (recycled) terry hand or bath towels or undyed shop rags into 8-inch squares. That size is small enough to fit inside a glass but big enough to clean counters.

Step 2 – Choose colors and dyes
For my dishrags, I used the following pastel colors and vegetable dye materials.

Sky Blue - fresh blueberries
Ice Cream Pink - fresh beets
Tree Bark Tan - strong brewed coffee
Light Saffron Yellow - ground turmeric
Light Sage Green - spinach leaves

Step 3: Make color fixatives
These natural fixatives will make the dye soak into the fabric more easily.

•Salt fixative for berry and spice dyes -- 1/2 cup salt to 8 cups cold water. Stir to dissolve.
•Vinegar fixatives for plant dyes -- 4 parts cold water to 1 part vinegar. Mix.

Add your squares to the fixative, heat and simmer for an hour. (You'll probably be able to fix and dye two or three cloths at a time.) Cool and squeeze out the fabric. Rinse in cool water until water is clear.

Step 4 - Dye bath
To make the veggie dye bath, cut the plants into small pieces and place in a stainless steel pot. Use two parts of water to one part plant material. For spices and coffee, about a half cup should be enough to make a dye. For stronger colors, increase the proportion of dye material. Don't worry about any possible stains in your pans - everything is natural, so nothing will harm your pans or be toxic for your family.  Bring the solution to a boil and simmer for about an hour; strain the liquid, leaving only the colored liquid.

Step 5 - Dyeing
Using the same pan (or pouring the dye-water into a larger stainless steel pan, if necessary), simmer the solution and fabric together for one hour. Leave the squares in the dye water for 4 to 8 hours. Be sure to swish the fabric around every hour or so to make sure all parts are unfolded and absorbing the same degree of color. You can check for color intensity after a few hours. Just keep the squares longer for a darker tone - even over night, if you like. By the way, the color of the fabric is always somewhat lighter when it dries.

Step 6 - Rinse
Remove the squares from dye bath and squeeze out the coloring. Rinse in cool water until water runs clear. Dry.

Step 7 - Hemming and making a crocheted border
Turn the edges in about a third of an inch - just one time, not doubled - and sew a running stitch around the cloth using a matching thread color. Then give them a sturdier hem with a crocheted shell border using a cotton yarn. Be sure your crocheted hem covers up what the usually unattractive stitched heming. Choose a yarn color that coordinates or contrasts with your fabric color.

Notes: Always wash your dyed kitchen rags and towels in cool water either alone or with other light-colored linens (and not with regular clothing). Air-dry your washed dishrags on a clothesline, when possible, to sanitize them. No chlorine bleach, please. Try to keep them out of direct sunlight. If using a clothes dryer, set it to air-dry setting or the lowest heat. The natural dyed terry will fade in time, but the crocheted edge will continue to make your cloths attractive.

Related posts:
IN PRAISE OF THE SIMPLE DISHRAG
BE SURE TO USE ALTERNATIVES TO CHLORINE BLEACH
LIVING IT UP WITH LESS: DECORATION IN A SIMPLE HOME
RECYCLE PLASTIC BAGS INTO USEFUL ITEMS
MAKE BEAUTIFUL BEADS FROM RECYCLED PAPER
GIVE AN OLD T-SHIRT A NEW LIFE AS A SHOPPING BAG